GREECE:
I was deathly ill when we arrived in Greece and completely out of money, so this list is short; I spent most of my time sleeping!
To Do:
1. Visit an island; I was vastly disappointed in the aesthetics of Athens, but apparently the islands are where the real beauty is. For a party-all-the-time island, try Mykonos. For cliff-jumping, go to Aegina.
2. Go to La Plaka; a stretch of shopping and restaurants to satisfy all cravings, from souvenirs to French fries and jewelry. All outdoors so it can be quite intense in the summer. For a more pleasant summer shopping experience, try:
3. The Athens Mall; incredibly large, with some very fun and different stores. We were only here for about an hour because we went on our last day (mistake!), but designate a good 3-4 hours for a truly extravagant shopping experience. Some of the stores are staggeringly expensive.
To Eat:
1. French fries!: Greece has some really fantastic French fries, and they serve them with everything, in all different shapes and sizes. Order them as a snack or with your gyro (generally, they will serve the gyro with the French frieGrs inside it—try it!).
2. Olives; I looked so forward to the olives in Greece, but the ones in Croatia and Italy were actually tastier, only because Greek olives are incredibly salty. They are still very good, but I can’t handle more than a few.
3. Feta; order it alone! Many times it will be served as a block, sprinkled with pepper and coated in olive oil. Grab a fork and share with a friend. It also goes very well with those French fries you ordered.
4. Meat; whether in the form of a gyro or just a chunk of it over a bed of fries or rice, the meat in Greece is fantastic. I particularly enjoyed the pork, especially when served as sausage with pita, yoghurt, hummus, and French fries. That was one of my favorite meals of the entire summer.
5. Baklava; delicious Greek pastry, often with nuts or sugar. Baklava is also found in Middle Eastern countries, but in different variations.
6. Ouzo; if hard liquor is your thing.
To Buy:
1. Olives; in case your life needs more salt!
2. Olive Oil; in case you didn’t pick any up in Croatia or Italy!
3. Greek Candy; unique and delicious, look for Greek Delight (comparable to Turkish Delight) and hard candies that will be available in any market you come across.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Micro-Mini Guides: Croatia
CROATIA:
To Do:
1. Cliff-jumping; you don’t have to go off the forty-footers. Stick to a smaller one and you will still feel the rush of jumping off a cliff into the Adriatic Sea. Make sure to go where other people are partaking in the activity; cliff-jumping can be dangerous.
2. See the peacocks at Lokrum Island (off the coast of Dubrovnik); they will let you touch them, if you are so inclined. There are an abundance of rather ugly females, but the male peacocks are quite spectacular and fun to watch.
3. Stay out at a club or bar until 6 AM; Croatians can party.
4. Snorkeling; few of the fish are colorful, but the Adriatic has the perfect temperament for this water activity, as well as others, including:
5. Go kayaking; rent one yourself so you can set your own pace. First-timers beware: this is an intense workout.
6. Travel to Bosnia or Montenegro; Mostar, Bosnia is just a three-hour bus ride from Dubrovnik, and Montenegro is even closer. Both are supposedly undiscovered gems.
7. Visit Old City in Dubrovnik; it is classically beautiful, and truly Mediterranean in style. There is good shopping and food, and the nightlife is not by any means tame.
8. Take a private boat tour; night ones are particularly fun. Many of the boats have glass bottoms so you can see what you are floating over, which is very intriguing. Those in Old City are rather inexpensive, and sometimes they will let you:
9. Go night swimming; the Adriatic stays warm all the time during the summer, and it is both scary and exciting to swim in it after dark, especially when you are on a boat, far from land!
To Eat:
1. Pizza; Croatia has surprisingly good pizza, and it is very, very cheap. Many places will offer discounts if you return.
2. Seafood; it is a bit more expensive than other Croatian food, but very good, especially when combined with pasta. Croatian Italian food is as good as the real thing in many places.
To Buy:
1. Coral Jewelry; you will find it everywhere, and it is high-quality, colorful, and very fun. Styles range from subtle to the very obnoxious, and one piece will likely be enough. Specifically, the rings are lovely.
2. Olive Oil; venture into Dubrovnik’s Old City to find the homemade olive oil stands that line the street. The flavored ones are especially delicious. Other foodstuffs are also offered, such as fig marmalade and sage honey (all are amazing).
3. Maps and other street artwork; it is cheap and high-quality. The art is good and the maps are interesting (I am a map-lover) and antique-looking
To Do:
1. Cliff-jumping; you don’t have to go off the forty-footers. Stick to a smaller one and you will still feel the rush of jumping off a cliff into the Adriatic Sea. Make sure to go where other people are partaking in the activity; cliff-jumping can be dangerous.
2. See the peacocks at Lokrum Island (off the coast of Dubrovnik); they will let you touch them, if you are so inclined. There are an abundance of rather ugly females, but the male peacocks are quite spectacular and fun to watch.
3. Stay out at a club or bar until 6 AM; Croatians can party.
4. Snorkeling; few of the fish are colorful, but the Adriatic has the perfect temperament for this water activity, as well as others, including:
5. Go kayaking; rent one yourself so you can set your own pace. First-timers beware: this is an intense workout.
6. Travel to Bosnia or Montenegro; Mostar, Bosnia is just a three-hour bus ride from Dubrovnik, and Montenegro is even closer. Both are supposedly undiscovered gems.
7. Visit Old City in Dubrovnik; it is classically beautiful, and truly Mediterranean in style. There is good shopping and food, and the nightlife is not by any means tame.
8. Take a private boat tour; night ones are particularly fun. Many of the boats have glass bottoms so you can see what you are floating over, which is very intriguing. Those in Old City are rather inexpensive, and sometimes they will let you:
9. Go night swimming; the Adriatic stays warm all the time during the summer, and it is both scary and exciting to swim in it after dark, especially when you are on a boat, far from land!
To Eat:
1. Pizza; Croatia has surprisingly good pizza, and it is very, very cheap. Many places will offer discounts if you return.
2. Seafood; it is a bit more expensive than other Croatian food, but very good, especially when combined with pasta. Croatian Italian food is as good as the real thing in many places.
To Buy:
1. Coral Jewelry; you will find it everywhere, and it is high-quality, colorful, and very fun. Styles range from subtle to the very obnoxious, and one piece will likely be enough. Specifically, the rings are lovely.
2. Olive Oil; venture into Dubrovnik’s Old City to find the homemade olive oil stands that line the street. The flavored ones are especially delicious. Other foodstuffs are also offered, such as fig marmalade and sage honey (all are amazing).
3. Maps and other street artwork; it is cheap and high-quality. The art is good and the maps are interesting (I am a map-lover) and antique-looking
Micro-Mini Guides: Italy
ITALY:
To Do:
1. Visit Capri; it is insanely and unnecessarily expensive, as Dolce and Gabbana, Prada, and Fendi stores line the streets. However, Capri has a very specific charm to it. With enough searching, one can locate a delicious five-dollar salami and cheese sandwich (albeit to accompany their ten dollar-beer), or a twenty-five dollar private boat ride around the island. The grottos off of Capri are incredible, see number 2.
2. Swim in the grottos of off Capri; if you are not prone to seasickness, a boat tour is a fantastic way to do this. Two hours was a little too much for me, but shorter ones are available. Swim in the green grotto and the blue grotto after 5 PM (to avoid paying), and get the most spectacular views of the island from all sides.
3. Hike Mt. Vesuvius; anyone can do it for a price! I believe it cost me $70 for a private guided tour, including an air-conditioned bus ride from our ship up 3000 meters of the volcano. IT IS WORTH IT. The views, even when it is foggy and you cannot see past your nose, are amazing. Whether one is an experienced hiker or not (I am absolutely not), the “difficult” trail is the one to take. While it is, of course, difficult at times, it is an unparalleled experience.
4. See the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel; the Trevi fountain is also nice, but not worth the crowds unless you truly are dying to see it. I recommend going on a rainy day, because the lines evaporate and St. Peter’s Basilica is a surprisingly worthwhile sight. I did not make it into the Sistine Chapel, but I imagine it’s quite gorgeous.
5. Relax on the Spanish Steps; it is quite entertaining to people watch and wonder what all the rich people who are shopping at Yves Saint Laurent do for a living. This is also a good way to meet people.
6. Go to Brandi’s; the place that invented pizza. As it is located in Naples and I spent my time in Capri, I did not get to go; Jill and Steph, however, raved about it and I cannot imagine that the place that invented pizza would have bad pizza.
7. Enjoy a cantaloupe or watermelon from a fruit stand; I didn’t see these in Naples, Capri, or Rome, but if you come across one, sit down and enjoy! The fruit is delicious and sweet; I am not at all a fan of melon but the cantaloupe I had was fresh and satisfying.
8. Visit Piazza Navona; I didn’t spend much time here, but Jill is a fan (read: it is her favorite place in all of Italy). Located in Rome, it has several restaurants and there is good boutique shopping nearby (antiques, murano glass, clothing).
To Eat:
There is certainly no shortage of incredible food in Italy, and rest assured that almost anything (if it is Italian) you order will be delicious, though it will also probably be expensive. Try not to be hungry between about 2 PM and 6 PM, because very few restaurants are open at this time, and the ones that are will be even more budget-breaking than usual. Notable eats include:
1. Pizza!; Italian pizza is incredible, and you won’t feel like a heifer after eating one.
2. Gelato; almost as good as Spain’s. In particular, Della Palma, in Rome, has more than 50 flavors to satisfy any ice-cream connoisseur.
3. Cheese; specifically, giant blocks of parmesan or balls of mozzarella. Order either as an appetizer and eat it with the crackers they serve you or by itself. On one night, I ate a block of parmesan with pear for dinner; it was an incredible combination! Even better, true Italian parmesan cheese contains an insane amount of protein and tastes very, very good.
4. Pork; salami, prosciutto, ham, it is all the best in Italy. Order it in pasta, on bruschetta, in a sandwich, or by itself and enjoy!
5. Limoncello; I saw entire stores dedicated to Italy’s signature hard liquor. It is bottled beautifully, bright yellow, and is deceivingly tasty-looking. I did not try it but is apparently quite potent. Drink carefully!
6. Olives; as many as you can.
To Buy:
1. Limoncello; if anything, it will look nice in your kitchen. We weren’t allowed to bring alcohol on the ship, but this would have been the bottle I brought on.
2. Murano glass; an Italian specialty, all sorts of things are made from it. The jewelry did not particularly tug my boat, but I did pick up a wine stopper made from the glass as well as some VERY expensive beads.
3. Mt. Vesuvius lava figurines; if you hike the volcano, you’ll find two small gift shops with figures made of the lava. They make very unique souvenirs and also serve as happy reminders of your volcano conquering.
4. Olive Oil; I will recommend buying this in other countries as well, but Italian olive oil is, of course, the ultimate.
To Do:
1. Visit Capri; it is insanely and unnecessarily expensive, as Dolce and Gabbana, Prada, and Fendi stores line the streets. However, Capri has a very specific charm to it. With enough searching, one can locate a delicious five-dollar salami and cheese sandwich (albeit to accompany their ten dollar-beer), or a twenty-five dollar private boat ride around the island. The grottos off of Capri are incredible, see number 2.
2. Swim in the grottos of off Capri; if you are not prone to seasickness, a boat tour is a fantastic way to do this. Two hours was a little too much for me, but shorter ones are available. Swim in the green grotto and the blue grotto after 5 PM (to avoid paying), and get the most spectacular views of the island from all sides.
3. Hike Mt. Vesuvius; anyone can do it for a price! I believe it cost me $70 for a private guided tour, including an air-conditioned bus ride from our ship up 3000 meters of the volcano. IT IS WORTH IT. The views, even when it is foggy and you cannot see past your nose, are amazing. Whether one is an experienced hiker or not (I am absolutely not), the “difficult” trail is the one to take. While it is, of course, difficult at times, it is an unparalleled experience.
4. See the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel; the Trevi fountain is also nice, but not worth the crowds unless you truly are dying to see it. I recommend going on a rainy day, because the lines evaporate and St. Peter’s Basilica is a surprisingly worthwhile sight. I did not make it into the Sistine Chapel, but I imagine it’s quite gorgeous.
5. Relax on the Spanish Steps; it is quite entertaining to people watch and wonder what all the rich people who are shopping at Yves Saint Laurent do for a living. This is also a good way to meet people.
6. Go to Brandi’s; the place that invented pizza. As it is located in Naples and I spent my time in Capri, I did not get to go; Jill and Steph, however, raved about it and I cannot imagine that the place that invented pizza would have bad pizza.
7. Enjoy a cantaloupe or watermelon from a fruit stand; I didn’t see these in Naples, Capri, or Rome, but if you come across one, sit down and enjoy! The fruit is delicious and sweet; I am not at all a fan of melon but the cantaloupe I had was fresh and satisfying.
8. Visit Piazza Navona; I didn’t spend much time here, but Jill is a fan (read: it is her favorite place in all of Italy). Located in Rome, it has several restaurants and there is good boutique shopping nearby (antiques, murano glass, clothing).
To Eat:
There is certainly no shortage of incredible food in Italy, and rest assured that almost anything (if it is Italian) you order will be delicious, though it will also probably be expensive. Try not to be hungry between about 2 PM and 6 PM, because very few restaurants are open at this time, and the ones that are will be even more budget-breaking than usual. Notable eats include:
1. Pizza!; Italian pizza is incredible, and you won’t feel like a heifer after eating one.
2. Gelato; almost as good as Spain’s. In particular, Della Palma, in Rome, has more than 50 flavors to satisfy any ice-cream connoisseur.
3. Cheese; specifically, giant blocks of parmesan or balls of mozzarella. Order either as an appetizer and eat it with the crackers they serve you or by itself. On one night, I ate a block of parmesan with pear for dinner; it was an incredible combination! Even better, true Italian parmesan cheese contains an insane amount of protein and tastes very, very good.
4. Pork; salami, prosciutto, ham, it is all the best in Italy. Order it in pasta, on bruschetta, in a sandwich, or by itself and enjoy!
5. Limoncello; I saw entire stores dedicated to Italy’s signature hard liquor. It is bottled beautifully, bright yellow, and is deceivingly tasty-looking. I did not try it but is apparently quite potent. Drink carefully!
6. Olives; as many as you can.
To Buy:
1. Limoncello; if anything, it will look nice in your kitchen. We weren’t allowed to bring alcohol on the ship, but this would have been the bottle I brought on.
2. Murano glass; an Italian specialty, all sorts of things are made from it. The jewelry did not particularly tug my boat, but I did pick up a wine stopper made from the glass as well as some VERY expensive beads.
3. Mt. Vesuvius lava figurines; if you hike the volcano, you’ll find two small gift shops with figures made of the lava. They make very unique souvenirs and also serve as happy reminders of your volcano conquering.
4. Olive Oil; I will recommend buying this in other countries as well, but Italian olive oil is, of course, the ultimate.
Monday, August 17, 2009
In Retrospect
Over the course of this past summer, I have compiled in my head all the best things about each country I have visited. If I ever return (which I hope to do) to these places, I would want a list of all the best things to do, eat, and buy. Consequently I will be putting together micro-miniature guides to all 8 countries, including what I have observed are the most rewarding things to see, consume, and purchase. Of course, I was only in each country for 4-5 days, so it’s an amateur’s perspective; however, for first-timers it would be convenient as well as for my future second-timer self.
Following is the first installment.
SPAIN:
To Do:
1. Go to a soccer game; I didn’t actually do this, but while we were there, the US beat Spain and everyone had something to say about it. The games are supposedly insane.
2. See the sunflower fields; they are incredible, and they are everywhere.
3. Go to the Ice Bar in Barcelona; I did not do this either, but I wish I had. Apparently it is quite the experience, they give you coats at the entrance.
4. Speak Spanish; even if it is just a few words, they will appreciate it. Spain speaks less English than any other European country, and knowing some words or phrases will also help ensure better service, especially when polite and engaging.
5. Go topless at the beach; this is the country for first-timers. I saw more topless women and naked children on the beaches in Spain than in Bulgaria, Italy, Greece, and Croatia combined.
6. Visit a bull ring; stand right in the center and imagine what happens/has happened right where you are.
7. See flamenco dancers; Spanish tradition, I wish I had done it. Those who went had nothing but good things to say.
To Eat:
1. Paella; duh. There are so many different varieties that everyone will be able to find one that they like.
2. Sangria; I’ve never had better, it has just the right amount of sweetness.
3. Churros; In particular, the chocolate ones.
4. Gelato; in my opinion, better than Italy’s. Get just one scoop atop an extra long cone…I recommend mint chocolate chip or flavors you don’t generally find elsewhere, like Nutella or the European favorite: Stracchiatella (vanilla with small balls of chocolate).
5. Shrimp pancakes; I am not shrimp’s biggest fan, but they are incredible! Ignore the onions.
To Buy:
1. A tiled bull souvenir; they come in all different colors, but I prefer the black ones. They are sold everywhere, and don’t look like your average picked-it-up-at-a-souvenir-shop trinket.
2. A fan; an absolute MUST for the summertime. Fans can be magical when it is surpassing 100 degrees and you are on a three-hour guided walking tour.
3. Clothing; look for the sales because the Euro is a killer. Spain has fantastic shopping and you can find a number of stores and items that are not available in the US. My favorite was a store called Blanco; everything in it was 50% off and the quality was rather good. It was comparable to H&M in style.
4. A soccer jersey; if you are a fan.
Following is the first installment.
SPAIN:
To Do:
1. Go to a soccer game; I didn’t actually do this, but while we were there, the US beat Spain and everyone had something to say about it. The games are supposedly insane.
2. See the sunflower fields; they are incredible, and they are everywhere.
3. Go to the Ice Bar in Barcelona; I did not do this either, but I wish I had. Apparently it is quite the experience, they give you coats at the entrance.
4. Speak Spanish; even if it is just a few words, they will appreciate it. Spain speaks less English than any other European country, and knowing some words or phrases will also help ensure better service, especially when polite and engaging.
5. Go topless at the beach; this is the country for first-timers. I saw more topless women and naked children on the beaches in Spain than in Bulgaria, Italy, Greece, and Croatia combined.
6. Visit a bull ring; stand right in the center and imagine what happens/has happened right where you are.
7. See flamenco dancers; Spanish tradition, I wish I had done it. Those who went had nothing but good things to say.
To Eat:
1. Paella; duh. There are so many different varieties that everyone will be able to find one that they like.
2. Sangria; I’ve never had better, it has just the right amount of sweetness.
3. Churros; In particular, the chocolate ones.
4. Gelato; in my opinion, better than Italy’s. Get just one scoop atop an extra long cone…I recommend mint chocolate chip or flavors you don’t generally find elsewhere, like Nutella or the European favorite: Stracchiatella (vanilla with small balls of chocolate).
5. Shrimp pancakes; I am not shrimp’s biggest fan, but they are incredible! Ignore the onions.
To Buy:
1. A tiled bull souvenir; they come in all different colors, but I prefer the black ones. They are sold everywhere, and don’t look like your average picked-it-up-at-a-souvenir-shop trinket.
2. A fan; an absolute MUST for the summertime. Fans can be magical when it is surpassing 100 degrees and you are on a three-hour guided walking tour.
3. Clothing; look for the sales because the Euro is a killer. Spain has fantastic shopping and you can find a number of stores and items that are not available in the US. My favorite was a store called Blanco; everything in it was 50% off and the quality was rather good. It was comparable to H&M in style.
4. A soccer jersey; if you are a fan.
Casablanca, Morocco: Days 3 and 4
On our second day in Marrakesh (third in Morocco), we awoke at 7 AM for a mediocre breakfast at the hotel before we set out on our full-day tour of the city. Our first stop was a mosque, where we spent about ten minutes viewing the outside of it. We then headed for a mausoleum (I didn’t pay attention very well), where we spent some time taking pictures and walking through the gardens around it. We then went to a shopping area of Marrakesh, where we had one hour to spend in a gigantic store containing all sorts of things, from antique teapots and jewelry to old-school telephones and keychains. It was slightly expensive, but at least the prices were set; I am so sick of haggling! I hate that it is impossible for me to walk away with a good deal. I spent a fair amount of money at the department-like store and we then went to a palace-turned-tourist-destination. Most of us began to crash at this point and it was incredibly hot; we wandered slowly behind our tour guide, eyes glazed. The palace was absolutely gorgeous and I had my room(s) all picked out; unfortunately, I was not in a very appreciative mood.
After an hour or so at the Moroccan palace, we left for lunch. We walked down a narrow alleyway and through and very smelly market selling live chickens and fresh fruit to get to an upstairs restaurant similar to the one we ate at the day before. It was dimly lit and a bit dingy but very beautiful. We had a meal comparable to the one the day before, although the salad was mediocre and there was no fried cream cheese :[
After lunch and more watermelon (bleh), we set out for the Riad de Epices! It was a Berber Pharmacy and a very lovely place; the walls were lined with jars filled with spices and colorful argan oil (something found ONLY in Morocco) cosmetics and lanterns hung low from the ceiling. We all gathered in a room while the woman who worked there talked to us about the different types of products they offered, ranging from psoriasis cream to sandalwood perfume and spice mixtures. I was floored when I heard the prices; the mint tea I had been dying to buy? $4 for a 6”x3” bag! Buy two get one free!! I loaded up a bigger bag than anyone else and left that pharmacy forty-five dollars lighter. You will all thank me! My favorite purchase was a bag of black grain, which can be used for all sorts of things; the most interesting is congestion: place a teaspoon of the grain in a porous type of paper (or something), then rub it against skin to get it warm. Sniff deeply and congestion is alleviated! I could smell that grain for an hour afterwards.
After we left the pharmacy, we did EVEN MORE SHOPPING at the square we had been at the night before. I bought a gorgeous silver lantern that, while it is a bit ghetto, looks incredible when lit. It was only 10 dollars, and trust me, it was worth it. The harassment and heat were at an all-time high as it was the middle of the day, and I sought refuge back on the bus. While some continued on to the botanical gardens (I wanted to go but I was disgustingly worn out and it cost money I did not have), most of us opted to go back to the hotel. We again congregated at the pool bar before I went down for a nap. We had dinner again at 8 PM, and it was again mediocre; I chose not to go out that night, to the dismay of my peers (“It’s our last night out in our last country and you’re not coming?!”). My roommate was gone for the night and the only thing in English on TV was a scary movie. Even worse, I could not get my balcony door to lock and so I slept with the lights on that night. After so long with a roommate and a ship full of 1,000 other people, I desperately fear being alone again so soon!
The next morning I rose and met the rest of my trip for another pseudo-breakfast (even worse than the ship breakfasts!) before our three and a half hour ride back to Casablanca, where I collapsed in my bed for a much-needed rest before we departed for our last port of call: NORFOLK, VIRGINIA, USA!
After an hour or so at the Moroccan palace, we left for lunch. We walked down a narrow alleyway and through and very smelly market selling live chickens and fresh fruit to get to an upstairs restaurant similar to the one we ate at the day before. It was dimly lit and a bit dingy but very beautiful. We had a meal comparable to the one the day before, although the salad was mediocre and there was no fried cream cheese :[
After lunch and more watermelon (bleh), we set out for the Riad de Epices! It was a Berber Pharmacy and a very lovely place; the walls were lined with jars filled with spices and colorful argan oil (something found ONLY in Morocco) cosmetics and lanterns hung low from the ceiling. We all gathered in a room while the woman who worked there talked to us about the different types of products they offered, ranging from psoriasis cream to sandalwood perfume and spice mixtures. I was floored when I heard the prices; the mint tea I had been dying to buy? $4 for a 6”x3” bag! Buy two get one free!! I loaded up a bigger bag than anyone else and left that pharmacy forty-five dollars lighter. You will all thank me! My favorite purchase was a bag of black grain, which can be used for all sorts of things; the most interesting is congestion: place a teaspoon of the grain in a porous type of paper (or something), then rub it against skin to get it warm. Sniff deeply and congestion is alleviated! I could smell that grain for an hour afterwards.
After we left the pharmacy, we did EVEN MORE SHOPPING at the square we had been at the night before. I bought a gorgeous silver lantern that, while it is a bit ghetto, looks incredible when lit. It was only 10 dollars, and trust me, it was worth it. The harassment and heat were at an all-time high as it was the middle of the day, and I sought refuge back on the bus. While some continued on to the botanical gardens (I wanted to go but I was disgustingly worn out and it cost money I did not have), most of us opted to go back to the hotel. We again congregated at the pool bar before I went down for a nap. We had dinner again at 8 PM, and it was again mediocre; I chose not to go out that night, to the dismay of my peers (“It’s our last night out in our last country and you’re not coming?!”). My roommate was gone for the night and the only thing in English on TV was a scary movie. Even worse, I could not get my balcony door to lock and so I slept with the lights on that night. After so long with a roommate and a ship full of 1,000 other people, I desperately fear being alone again so soon!
The next morning I rose and met the rest of my trip for another pseudo-breakfast (even worse than the ship breakfasts!) before our three and a half hour ride back to Casablanca, where I collapsed in my bed for a much-needed rest before we departed for our last port of call: NORFOLK, VIRGINIA, USA!
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Casablanca, Morocco: Day 2
I had a trip planned through Semester at Sea for the last three days in Morocco. I knew only two people going: Corey and Brady, and we boarded a bus headed to Marrakesh at 8 AM. After two hours of sleeping, we stopped at a gas station, where I picked up some Moroccan treats (actually, they were mostly French) for all of you back home. We again boarded the bus and continued our journey, which I stayed awake for. The Moroccan countryside looks surprisingly similar to the drive up to San Francisco from Los Angeles—on the 5. It was very dull, brown scenery. I much preferred our drive through Egypt (I say Egipto now—the Spanish equivalent—because it is so fun to say. Try it. Ee-HIP-thoe.)
Just before Marrakesh, we stopped for lunch in a completely empty, very beautiful Moroccan restaurant, filled with gorgeous fabric couches and tapestries. We enjoyed a Moroccan salad first: white rice, white beans, lentils, peppers, potatoes, chutney, and spicy sauce, yum. It was a giant plate placed in the center of our table, from which all eight of us took spoonfuls of the ingredients we wanted. I piled lentils, white beans, and spicy sauce on my bread and filled myself up before our second course, which was also incredibly delicious. We were served a plate with two different types of fried treats: triangular pastries filled with beef, and little rolls of cream cheese in a flaky crust; all was piping hot. I enjoyed my cream cheese rolls while the others devoured the meat triangles. Our final course was again family-style: a giant bowl-plate filled with cous cous, vegetables, and beef (they had chicken made especially for me, but I was far too full and gave most of it away). We finished with watermelon, which was the lowest point in my meal only because I am not a fan of the seedy fruit.
After lunch we set out for…camel riding! Yay! More camels! Now, I have no idea what our guides or organizers were thinking when they set up our day, because although the day had begun with cool weather, by 2 PM (when we began our TWO HOUR trek) the sun was burning bright and hard. I would have much rather camel-ridden before lunch, and before the hottest part of the day. We are in Africa! It is August! HELLO! So, we climbed upon our camels, which was a task in itself as those camels were screaming like they had had just about enough for one lifetime. When they were supposed to sit, they stood. When they were asked to stand, they sat. As they were all tied together, one camel committing disobedience subsequently led to all of the camels doing so. I was placed on the second camel in line, whose cushions were falling off at a fairly severe angle. I was hyperventilating the first few minutes, asking our guide several times if I was going to die, at which he laughed. Those camels are high up! When you are falling off and walking next to thorny bushes, these are the thoughts that pass through your mind. After about forty minutes of failing to readjust and whimpering quietly to myself, we arrived at a traditional Berber (main population of Morocco) household, where we enjoyed some Moroccan music and delicious Moroccan tea (I’m bringing plenty home!). After a twenty-minute rest, we went back to our camels. I refused to board the same one, and after everyone else had climbed on theirs, they all stood without me! I shrieked quite loudly when three of the guides grabbed my legs without warning and hoisted me up onto the first camel, behind the girl who was already seated on it. Like I said, those camels are high up and that was not an easy task. While her cushions were on straight, there seemed to be a metal bar straight down the center of it (???), making for a very uncomfortable ride and a very sore bum over the next two days.
After two hours in the hot hot hot sun, I was ready to enjoy my hotel. We set out for the Imperial Plaza Hotel and Spa, which sounds a lot nicer than it actually is. Over the course of the next two days, several students found their rooms filled with ash and unclean, two students had their clothes dyed black when the reception counter was painted and no sign was put up, and all of us were put out when the receptionists checked us all out early and our keys no longer worked. My room in particular was smaller than the rest, with no balcony, twin beds, and only one pillow and one towel. I’m not sure what the five hundred dollars I paid for this trip went towards, but I really hope that most of it did not go to the hotel.
My roommate and I settled in to our hotel room and showered, after which I received a phone call to the room: “HELLO!” I responded, “hello, yes?” “DO YOU KNOW WHO THIS IS MADELINE!” I guessed correctly! It was Tom, who had somehow found his way to Marrakesh and our hotel on his own (he was not on our trip). He was to stay with Brady and Corey in their room that night, but he could not find their name on the list and called me instead. We went up to the pool (on the sixth floor), where we found some other trip participants, including Brady and Corey, at the bar. We joined them for awhile before our 8 PM buffet dinner at the hotel, which was somewhat disappointing. Tom, of course, quite enjoyed it, as it was a free meal for him. After we ate, fifteen or so of us gathered in one of the larger hotel rooms before heading out to the “square.” When we arrived at the “square,” we were perplexed by how insanely packed it was at midnight, as people shopped and ate and played with monkeys…
We, however, stood around for quite awhile doing nothing. We were too large a group, and although I wanted to walk around and see the stalls and look at what they were selling, most everyone else wanted to PARTY PARTY PARTY and I was outnumbered. Every place that was suggested required an entrance fee, however, which I was not going to pay. I’m a GIRL! Girls never pay to get into clubs (that’s the rule). I went back to the hotel with another girl who was less than amused, and I was asleep by 1 AM.
Just before Marrakesh, we stopped for lunch in a completely empty, very beautiful Moroccan restaurant, filled with gorgeous fabric couches and tapestries. We enjoyed a Moroccan salad first: white rice, white beans, lentils, peppers, potatoes, chutney, and spicy sauce, yum. It was a giant plate placed in the center of our table, from which all eight of us took spoonfuls of the ingredients we wanted. I piled lentils, white beans, and spicy sauce on my bread and filled myself up before our second course, which was also incredibly delicious. We were served a plate with two different types of fried treats: triangular pastries filled with beef, and little rolls of cream cheese in a flaky crust; all was piping hot. I enjoyed my cream cheese rolls while the others devoured the meat triangles. Our final course was again family-style: a giant bowl-plate filled with cous cous, vegetables, and beef (they had chicken made especially for me, but I was far too full and gave most of it away). We finished with watermelon, which was the lowest point in my meal only because I am not a fan of the seedy fruit.
After lunch we set out for…camel riding! Yay! More camels! Now, I have no idea what our guides or organizers were thinking when they set up our day, because although the day had begun with cool weather, by 2 PM (when we began our TWO HOUR trek) the sun was burning bright and hard. I would have much rather camel-ridden before lunch, and before the hottest part of the day. We are in Africa! It is August! HELLO! So, we climbed upon our camels, which was a task in itself as those camels were screaming like they had had just about enough for one lifetime. When they were supposed to sit, they stood. When they were asked to stand, they sat. As they were all tied together, one camel committing disobedience subsequently led to all of the camels doing so. I was placed on the second camel in line, whose cushions were falling off at a fairly severe angle. I was hyperventilating the first few minutes, asking our guide several times if I was going to die, at which he laughed. Those camels are high up! When you are falling off and walking next to thorny bushes, these are the thoughts that pass through your mind. After about forty minutes of failing to readjust and whimpering quietly to myself, we arrived at a traditional Berber (main population of Morocco) household, where we enjoyed some Moroccan music and delicious Moroccan tea (I’m bringing plenty home!). After a twenty-minute rest, we went back to our camels. I refused to board the same one, and after everyone else had climbed on theirs, they all stood without me! I shrieked quite loudly when three of the guides grabbed my legs without warning and hoisted me up onto the first camel, behind the girl who was already seated on it. Like I said, those camels are high up and that was not an easy task. While her cushions were on straight, there seemed to be a metal bar straight down the center of it (???), making for a very uncomfortable ride and a very sore bum over the next two days.
After two hours in the hot hot hot sun, I was ready to enjoy my hotel. We set out for the Imperial Plaza Hotel and Spa, which sounds a lot nicer than it actually is. Over the course of the next two days, several students found their rooms filled with ash and unclean, two students had their clothes dyed black when the reception counter was painted and no sign was put up, and all of us were put out when the receptionists checked us all out early and our keys no longer worked. My room in particular was smaller than the rest, with no balcony, twin beds, and only one pillow and one towel. I’m not sure what the five hundred dollars I paid for this trip went towards, but I really hope that most of it did not go to the hotel.
My roommate and I settled in to our hotel room and showered, after which I received a phone call to the room: “HELLO!” I responded, “hello, yes?” “DO YOU KNOW WHO THIS IS MADELINE!” I guessed correctly! It was Tom, who had somehow found his way to Marrakesh and our hotel on his own (he was not on our trip). He was to stay with Brady and Corey in their room that night, but he could not find their name on the list and called me instead. We went up to the pool (on the sixth floor), where we found some other trip participants, including Brady and Corey, at the bar. We joined them for awhile before our 8 PM buffet dinner at the hotel, which was somewhat disappointing. Tom, of course, quite enjoyed it, as it was a free meal for him. After we ate, fifteen or so of us gathered in one of the larger hotel rooms before heading out to the “square.” When we arrived at the “square,” we were perplexed by how insanely packed it was at midnight, as people shopped and ate and played with monkeys…
We, however, stood around for quite awhile doing nothing. We were too large a group, and although I wanted to walk around and see the stalls and look at what they were selling, most everyone else wanted to PARTY PARTY PARTY and I was outnumbered. Every place that was suggested required an entrance fee, however, which I was not going to pay. I’m a GIRL! Girls never pay to get into clubs (that’s the rule). I went back to the hotel with another girl who was less than amused, and I was asleep by 1 AM.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Casablanca, Morocco: Day 1
On our first day in Morocco, Jill and Steph (and Steph’s mom, who had come to Morocco to visit her) went on the Casablanca City Orientation, so I spent the day with Brady. We set out in search of a bar and shopping, settling first into a hole in the wall spot with no lights whatsoever and a hole in the ground (literally) to pee in. We drank the local beer and ate ketchup flavored fried chip-like…things. I won about 5 games of War before we left to look for shopping. We stopped first at a stand selling what looked like a delicious treat: fried dough, sort of like a donut. We ordered two and watched with delight as they sliced each one open longways before spreading peach honey inside and then dipping the entire concoction in sugar. It was absolutely the most amazing thing I have eaten this entire summer. They invited me back to make some with them, at which I failed miserably; this surprised me, as it was not a difficult task. The knives were not sharp enough! This is my excuse.
After two binis (the aforementioned deliciousness) each, Brady and I continued walking. It only took us about a minute and a half to find our next distraction: neon chicks. It is exactly what it sounds like: baby chickens dyed all different colors of the neon rainbow. The pink ones were the most vibrant, but there were also yellow, green, and orange little bumpkins running around. The vendor placed one in each of my hands and I marveled at the cuteness for a few minutes before he grabbed them back and began packaging them for me to take home. Brady had to basically peel me away so that I didn’t purchase something I could do absolutely nothing with.
We finally found shopping! Albeit, the bazaar was less than a five minute walk from the port, but we had made several stops. I purchased some items and we browsed for a bit, annoyed only when one particular little boy would not leave us alone. He grabbed my hand and kissed it, scaring me half to death, and then looked up at me with sad puppy-dog eyes only a seasoned beggar could have. After we left the bazaar, we went back to the bar for a drink before heading back to the ship for a nap. I spent the rest of the night sleeping, electing not to go to Rick’s Café (from the movie Casablanca), because it is notoriously expensive and I have never seen Casablanca anyway!
After two binis (the aforementioned deliciousness) each, Brady and I continued walking. It only took us about a minute and a half to find our next distraction: neon chicks. It is exactly what it sounds like: baby chickens dyed all different colors of the neon rainbow. The pink ones were the most vibrant, but there were also yellow, green, and orange little bumpkins running around. The vendor placed one in each of my hands and I marveled at the cuteness for a few minutes before he grabbed them back and began packaging them for me to take home. Brady had to basically peel me away so that I didn’t purchase something I could do absolutely nothing with.
We finally found shopping! Albeit, the bazaar was less than a five minute walk from the port, but we had made several stops. I purchased some items and we browsed for a bit, annoyed only when one particular little boy would not leave us alone. He grabbed my hand and kissed it, scaring me half to death, and then looked up at me with sad puppy-dog eyes only a seasoned beggar could have. After we left the bazaar, we went back to the bar for a drink before heading back to the ship for a nap. I spent the rest of the night sleeping, electing not to go to Rick’s Café (from the movie Casablanca), because it is notoriously expensive and I have never seen Casablanca anyway!
Friday, August 7, 2009
Alexandria, Egypt: Days 4 and 5
On our fourth day in Egypt, we received our wake-up call at 6 AM, and it surprisingly felt even worse to wake up after 6 hours of sleep than after 3 or 4! We ate breakfast and left the hotel for the Karnak Temple, an ancient temple that, according to our guide, brings grown men to tears. We arrived at the temple and spent an hour there viewing the enormous ruins (60 acres or something..). Afterwards, just as in every other site we had been to, we were herded down an alleyway separate from the entrance we had come through. This alleyway was filled with shops and about twenty men holding trinkets and such, who swarmed the tourists when they were exiting. As I was the first in the crowd, I got the bulk of it and by the end felt very mean as I found myself shouting at these people to “LEAVE ME ALONE!” I had gone through the same deal at Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple, the Alabaster Mosque, the Great Pyramids, and just about every other place we needed a ticket to get into. It was quite ridiculous; they need someone to coach them in approaching foreigners. For example: Steph admitted that she had wanted to shop but was too intimidated to do so, and if they had left her alone she would have been far more likely to make a purchase. Culture clash.
After the Temple we (Group A) left for the airport for our flight back to Cairo. Once we arrived, we returned to the Le Meridian Hotel for a buffet lunch before the drive back to Alexandria. I spent the night playing cards with Tom and went to bed early as I was incredibly tired. The next morning, Tom and I went to an internet café, where he learned to skype and I had a nice two-hour video chat with James. I was scolded by a bitter Semester-at-Sea-er who asserted that skyping uses too much bandwidth and we should refrain so that she could use the internet. I basically told her to shove it.
After four hours in the internet café (at one dollar an hour it was quite the deal), Tom and I returned to the ship, where we were invited by Jill to go to lunch with her, Steph, and her new Egyptian friend. He picked the four of us up and we drove to a restaurant where we settled into a large table on the outdoor patio and discussed the differences in our cultures (for a solid two hours), after which we returned to the ship before our departure for Casablanca.
After the Temple we (Group A) left for the airport for our flight back to Cairo. Once we arrived, we returned to the Le Meridian Hotel for a buffet lunch before the drive back to Alexandria. I spent the night playing cards with Tom and went to bed early as I was incredibly tired. The next morning, Tom and I went to an internet café, where he learned to skype and I had a nice two-hour video chat with James. I was scolded by a bitter Semester-at-Sea-er who asserted that skyping uses too much bandwidth and we should refrain so that she could use the internet. I basically told her to shove it.
After four hours in the internet café (at one dollar an hour it was quite the deal), Tom and I returned to the ship, where we were invited by Jill to go to lunch with her, Steph, and her new Egyptian friend. He picked the four of us up and we drove to a restaurant where we settled into a large table on the outdoor patio and discussed the differences in our cultures (for a solid two hours), after which we returned to the ship before our departure for Casablanca.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Alexandria, Egypt: Day 3
We again were awoken at 4 AM, this time for our plane ride to Luxor. We took the 7:15 AM flight out of Cairo and most of us slept the hour it took to get there. Once we arrived, we immediately set out for the Valley of the Kings, an ancient burial ground created after the pyramids in response to tomb raiders. Instead of building pyramids which everyone could find, underground passageways and chambers were the burial method. The Valley of the Kings houses 64 tombs, including King Tut’s (which I did not enter because that $20 was not in my budget). The tombs were incredible! The colors of the drawings on the walls were still so vibrant that it is shocking to realize they are three thousand years old. We wandered two of the tombs, vastly mystified by the endurance of the blues, reds, and greens. One of the tombs was so far underground that stairs gave way to ramps, which cause us quite extreme exhaustion on our way back up. Luxor was incredibly hot; if Cairo was 95 degrees, then Luxor was generally 107. Valley of the Kings did become miserable after awhile, and Steph and I eventually took refuge in the shade under several fans while we waited for our group to assemble.
After the Valley of the Kings, we journeyed to the seemingly even hotter (is it possible?!) area that encompassed Queen Hatshepsut’s (a significant female pharaoh who considered herself both male and female) Temple. We spent only about a half hour there, wandering the vast temple, built into the side of a giant brown cliff. After Hatshepsut’s Temple, we made a quick stop to view the Colossi of Memnon, two giant statues next to each other. After spending three hours straight in the unbearable heat, I was content to take one picture and jump right back on the bus.
After the majority of our sights for the day had been seen, our buses headed to our hotel in Luxor for a buffet! lunch and free time (YES). The buffets at our Luxor hotel was far superior to those of the other places we had been, in particular the plantains they had for dinner later and the breakfast they served the next morning (mm chicken sausage). I did a little shopping and purchased some papyrus (apparently a must for Egypt) and then took a short nap before our 6 PM departure for the Luxor Temple, which was quite a sight. It was beautiful and intriguing, though the heat really did not add to the experience. When we returned to the hotel, we had dinner (I engulfed about 8 fried plantains…) and then I went with Steph and several others to enjoy a show in the hotel’s courtyard. We ordered shisha and watched women bellydance and men perform the dervish. These performers were absolutely superior to those we’d seen on the Nile riverboat, and when they came to insist that I dance with them, I did not refuse. Later on, they performed a large group dance in which at least ten of us (the audience was largely Semester at Sea) participated. It was quite fun, actually, and I felt it was a very nice way to end the day. Though some went on to a pub across the street, I was content to go to sleep, as it was midnight and we had, of course, a 6 AM wake up call.
After the Valley of the Kings, we journeyed to the seemingly even hotter (is it possible?!) area that encompassed Queen Hatshepsut’s (a significant female pharaoh who considered herself both male and female) Temple. We spent only about a half hour there, wandering the vast temple, built into the side of a giant brown cliff. After Hatshepsut’s Temple, we made a quick stop to view the Colossi of Memnon, two giant statues next to each other. After spending three hours straight in the unbearable heat, I was content to take one picture and jump right back on the bus.
After the majority of our sights for the day had been seen, our buses headed to our hotel in Luxor for a buffet! lunch and free time (YES). The buffets at our Luxor hotel was far superior to those of the other places we had been, in particular the plantains they had for dinner later and the breakfast they served the next morning (mm chicken sausage). I did a little shopping and purchased some papyrus (apparently a must for Egypt) and then took a short nap before our 6 PM departure for the Luxor Temple, which was quite a sight. It was beautiful and intriguing, though the heat really did not add to the experience. When we returned to the hotel, we had dinner (I engulfed about 8 fried plantains…) and then I went with Steph and several others to enjoy a show in the hotel’s courtyard. We ordered shisha and watched women bellydance and men perform the dervish. These performers were absolutely superior to those we’d seen on the Nile riverboat, and when they came to insist that I dance with them, I did not refuse. Later on, they performed a large group dance in which at least ten of us (the audience was largely Semester at Sea) participated. It was quite fun, actually, and I felt it was a very nice way to end the day. Though some went on to a pub across the street, I was content to go to sleep, as it was midnight and we had, of course, a 6 AM wake up call.
Alexandria, Egypt: Day 2
Following a 4 AM wake up call, we boarded our buses for the short drive to the Great Pyramids at Gizeh (what I have been anticipating since I applied for this trip!!), where we drove to a panoramic lookout in order to watch the sun rise above the three ancient legends. It was quite spectacular to watch, and although several Semester at Sea-ers chose to completely disregard the fact that other people were there and journeyed closer (only to make it impossible for us to get a picture of the pyramids without them in it!), it was absolutely the best sunrise I have ever and likely will ever see. I am only sorry that I didn’t have a better camera to capture it with (this is a stab at you, Mom!)…
After oogling the rising sun for an hour and a half, we returned to the bus and air conditioning to await our camel rides. Steph and I climbed onto a camel together for ten dollars each, jerking and rocking as the camel swayed from side to side. They are much larger creatures than I had anticipated! We rode closer to the pyramids and then back to the bus to be transported to our second pyramid stop: the ground between the bases of Cheops and Khafre. We stood for awhile, taking pictures and warding off the preying vendors shouting “ONE DOLLAR! ONE DOLLAR!” Our last stop was the Sphinx, which was significantly smaller than I had pictured it in my mind. The final view, of the Sphinx in the foreground and the three pyramids behind it, was quite incredible and an image I will not soon forget.
After our final viewing of the pyramids, it was nearly 10 AM as we headed for the Archaeological Museum in Cairo. It was repulsively hot as we debarked our bus, and of course the museum was not air-conditioned. The museum is about the point in the day when the majority of the group began hitting walls (we had been awake for six hours and had gotten less than four hours of sleep the night before, after all). The attendants in the bathrooms required one Egyptian pound if we were to be given toilet paper, but of course most of us only had one- and two-hundred bills, and as our bladders expanded it made the heat that much more unbearable. I needed to see the museum for my Art History class, and so I jotted down several notes before Steph and I left the group early to hide out in the air-conditioned gift shop, which was claustrophobically small and crowded, selling next to nothing besides postcards.
At noon we left the museum and drove to the Nile, where a riverboat awaited our arrival for lunch. We had another buffet while we cruised the infamous river (much dirtier/urban than I’d imagined), and then viewed a mediocre dervish performance followed by a less-than-mediocre belly dancing performance (more breast dancing than belly dancing). After lunch we were driven to YET ANOTHER site, the famous Alabaster Mosque. It was gorgeous, decorated in green and gold with lanterns strung all around. I have seen an insane amount of cathedrals over the past few months and this was the first mosque I had ever entered; according to my personal taste, the beauty of this mosque far outweighed any cathedral I had ever been in (and I have been in the Vatican). I learned today that Muslims do not generally create images in their buildings—as this duty is God’s alone—and I believe that the simpler motif of color and delicate decoration, as opposed to the opulence of Christianity, far better suits my aesthetic taste. We sat on the carpet in the mosque as our guide explained to us the basics of Islam and then gave us the opportunity to ask questions. Finding out a bit about Islam is something I strongly encourage everyone to do, as in western societies it is a religion that is terribly misconstrued due to the fact that many people are content not to look past September 11th. Instead, they judge another (very large and diverse) culture without knowing anything about it—save that there are several people who have DEVIATED from the religious norm and committed great atrocities. What many people do not understand is that these people are not, in fact, following traditional Islam, but have branched out to an extreme point of view that has only the fading basics rooted in Islamic culture.
After the mosque, we finally had some free time at the hotel, where Steph fell into a temporary coma after we ate a very delicious pizza. I napped for about an hour before I left with the rest of our group to go back to the Giza pyramids for the famed Sound and Light show. The pyramids were lit by different colors and a lazer-fueled, comic-like story ensued, as an ominous voice filled the air and told stories of the ancient Egyptians. Many people enjoyed it and many others were disappointed, but my thoughts were moreso on the fact that they had downplayed ancient Egypt to the point of mythology in order to make money. After all, these pyramids took an incredible amount of time and energy and killed many people (though NOT slaves; 200,000 skilled workers actually built them) in order to appease their pharaoh and the clearly VERY STRONG belief that he would rise again. Overall, I found the lighting of the pyramids to be lovely; it was the “sound” portion that was so disappointing. A peer of mine suggested music instead to go along with the lights, which I agreed would make the show infinitely better.
After the show, at around 9:30 PM, we all went back to the Marriott for dinner (another buffet!), before several of us decided to explore the hotel. On the roof we found a restaurant setup with a movie screening, which overlooked a good portion of Cairo. We enjoyed some Egyptian shisha (hookah), and Steph joined us, before I headed back to sleep around midnight. We had another 4 AM wake up call the next day…
After oogling the rising sun for an hour and a half, we returned to the bus and air conditioning to await our camel rides. Steph and I climbed onto a camel together for ten dollars each, jerking and rocking as the camel swayed from side to side. They are much larger creatures than I had anticipated! We rode closer to the pyramids and then back to the bus to be transported to our second pyramid stop: the ground between the bases of Cheops and Khafre. We stood for awhile, taking pictures and warding off the preying vendors shouting “ONE DOLLAR! ONE DOLLAR!” Our last stop was the Sphinx, which was significantly smaller than I had pictured it in my mind. The final view, of the Sphinx in the foreground and the three pyramids behind it, was quite incredible and an image I will not soon forget.
After our final viewing of the pyramids, it was nearly 10 AM as we headed for the Archaeological Museum in Cairo. It was repulsively hot as we debarked our bus, and of course the museum was not air-conditioned. The museum is about the point in the day when the majority of the group began hitting walls (we had been awake for six hours and had gotten less than four hours of sleep the night before, after all). The attendants in the bathrooms required one Egyptian pound if we were to be given toilet paper, but of course most of us only had one- and two-hundred bills, and as our bladders expanded it made the heat that much more unbearable. I needed to see the museum for my Art History class, and so I jotted down several notes before Steph and I left the group early to hide out in the air-conditioned gift shop, which was claustrophobically small and crowded, selling next to nothing besides postcards.
At noon we left the museum and drove to the Nile, where a riverboat awaited our arrival for lunch. We had another buffet while we cruised the infamous river (much dirtier/urban than I’d imagined), and then viewed a mediocre dervish performance followed by a less-than-mediocre belly dancing performance (more breast dancing than belly dancing). After lunch we were driven to YET ANOTHER site, the famous Alabaster Mosque. It was gorgeous, decorated in green and gold with lanterns strung all around. I have seen an insane amount of cathedrals over the past few months and this was the first mosque I had ever entered; according to my personal taste, the beauty of this mosque far outweighed any cathedral I had ever been in (and I have been in the Vatican). I learned today that Muslims do not generally create images in their buildings—as this duty is God’s alone—and I believe that the simpler motif of color and delicate decoration, as opposed to the opulence of Christianity, far better suits my aesthetic taste. We sat on the carpet in the mosque as our guide explained to us the basics of Islam and then gave us the opportunity to ask questions. Finding out a bit about Islam is something I strongly encourage everyone to do, as in western societies it is a religion that is terribly misconstrued due to the fact that many people are content not to look past September 11th. Instead, they judge another (very large and diverse) culture without knowing anything about it—save that there are several people who have DEVIATED from the religious norm and committed great atrocities. What many people do not understand is that these people are not, in fact, following traditional Islam, but have branched out to an extreme point of view that has only the fading basics rooted in Islamic culture.
After the mosque, we finally had some free time at the hotel, where Steph fell into a temporary coma after we ate a very delicious pizza. I napped for about an hour before I left with the rest of our group to go back to the Giza pyramids for the famed Sound and Light show. The pyramids were lit by different colors and a lazer-fueled, comic-like story ensued, as an ominous voice filled the air and told stories of the ancient Egyptians. Many people enjoyed it and many others were disappointed, but my thoughts were moreso on the fact that they had downplayed ancient Egypt to the point of mythology in order to make money. After all, these pyramids took an incredible amount of time and energy and killed many people (though NOT slaves; 200,000 skilled workers actually built them) in order to appease their pharaoh and the clearly VERY STRONG belief that he would rise again. Overall, I found the lighting of the pyramids to be lovely; it was the “sound” portion that was so disappointing. A peer of mine suggested music instead to go along with the lights, which I agreed would make the show infinitely better.
After the show, at around 9:30 PM, we all went back to the Marriott for dinner (another buffet!), before several of us decided to explore the hotel. On the roof we found a restaurant setup with a movie screening, which overlooked a good portion of Cairo. We enjoyed some Egyptian shisha (hookah), and Steph joined us, before I headed back to sleep around midnight. We had another 4 AM wake up call the next day…
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Alexandria, Egypt: Day 1
I was scheduled for a monstrous Semester at Sea trip in Egypt entitled Cairo/Luxor. As it required doing very much in very little time, we were scheduled to leave Alexandria as soon as the ship cleared immigration. Steph and I had breakfast and sat for about an hour (along with the other 120 or so participants) waiting to board the bus, which was escorted by the police until we were outside of the city. It was a three-hour drive through the Sahara to get to Cairo, and the majority of my time was spent sleeping. When we arrived, we stopped for lunch at Le Meridian, a hotel directly across from the Great Pyramids; it was a buffet, which was a style we would all get to know very well over the next several days.
After lunch, our buses headed for Memphis, Egypt’s first capital, to view some antiquities, including the fallen colossi of someone whose name has left me.. It was incredibly hot, but the place was small and we were only there for about a half hour. Afterwards, we continued on to Saqqara, which houses several tombs and ancient pyramids. We visited one tomb, touring the inside hieroglyphics before continuing on closer to the pyramids nearby. These were older than the Great Pyramids, and built very differently; there are six steps to each one instead of the smoother shape exhibited by other pyramids. We also saw a man make out with a camel—mighty unpleasant.
We then headed to our hotel (the Marriott) to check in and have some free time. Steph switched with my roommate so that we could share a room, and we spent our break ordering Kartouches from our tour guide. A kartouche is basically hieroglyphics on metal; they are popularly worn as jewelry in Egypt. At 7 PM we left for the bazaar, similar to those of Turkey, but much less touristy and therefore a bit more uncomfortable. We were hassled beyond belief, and Steph and I garnered an estimated fifteen marriage proposals. The bazaar was fun, and sold primarily authentic Egyptian clothing, gold, and silver jewelry. I bought a kartouche for myself at one of the jewelry stores for about half the price of the other one I ordered (it also turned out to be half the quality). At 9:30 we departed, heading back to the hotel for a 10:30 dinner, followed by showers and sleep.
After lunch, our buses headed for Memphis, Egypt’s first capital, to view some antiquities, including the fallen colossi of someone whose name has left me.. It was incredibly hot, but the place was small and we were only there for about a half hour. Afterwards, we continued on to Saqqara, which houses several tombs and ancient pyramids. We visited one tomb, touring the inside hieroglyphics before continuing on closer to the pyramids nearby. These were older than the Great Pyramids, and built very differently; there are six steps to each one instead of the smoother shape exhibited by other pyramids. We also saw a man make out with a camel—mighty unpleasant.
We then headed to our hotel (the Marriott) to check in and have some free time. Steph switched with my roommate so that we could share a room, and we spent our break ordering Kartouches from our tour guide. A kartouche is basically hieroglyphics on metal; they are popularly worn as jewelry in Egypt. At 7 PM we left for the bazaar, similar to those of Turkey, but much less touristy and therefore a bit more uncomfortable. We were hassled beyond belief, and Steph and I garnered an estimated fifteen marriage proposals. The bazaar was fun, and sold primarily authentic Egyptian clothing, gold, and silver jewelry. I bought a kartouche for myself at one of the jewelry stores for about half the price of the other one I ordered (it also turned out to be half the quality). At 9:30 we departed, heading back to the hotel for a 10:30 dinner, followed by showers and sleep.
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