I've decided to create a NEW blog, for a more organized approach to travel and eating. Enjoy! :]
www.foodandflight.blogspot.com
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Micro-Mini Guides: Greece
GREECE:
I was deathly ill when we arrived in Greece and completely out of money, so this list is short; I spent most of my time sleeping!
To Do:
1. Visit an island; I was vastly disappointed in the aesthetics of Athens, but apparently the islands are where the real beauty is. For a party-all-the-time island, try Mykonos. For cliff-jumping, go to Aegina.
2. Go to La Plaka; a stretch of shopping and restaurants to satisfy all cravings, from souvenirs to French fries and jewelry. All outdoors so it can be quite intense in the summer. For a more pleasant summer shopping experience, try:
3. The Athens Mall; incredibly large, with some very fun and different stores. We were only here for about an hour because we went on our last day (mistake!), but designate a good 3-4 hours for a truly extravagant shopping experience. Some of the stores are staggeringly expensive.
To Eat:
1. French fries!: Greece has some really fantastic French fries, and they serve them with everything, in all different shapes and sizes. Order them as a snack or with your gyro (generally, they will serve the gyro with the French frieGrs inside it—try it!).
2. Olives; I looked so forward to the olives in Greece, but the ones in Croatia and Italy were actually tastier, only because Greek olives are incredibly salty. They are still very good, but I can’t handle more than a few.
3. Feta; order it alone! Many times it will be served as a block, sprinkled with pepper and coated in olive oil. Grab a fork and share with a friend. It also goes very well with those French fries you ordered.
4. Meat; whether in the form of a gyro or just a chunk of it over a bed of fries or rice, the meat in Greece is fantastic. I particularly enjoyed the pork, especially when served as sausage with pita, yoghurt, hummus, and French fries. That was one of my favorite meals of the entire summer.
5. Baklava; delicious Greek pastry, often with nuts or sugar. Baklava is also found in Middle Eastern countries, but in different variations.
6. Ouzo; if hard liquor is your thing.
To Buy:
1. Olives; in case your life needs more salt!
2. Olive Oil; in case you didn’t pick any up in Croatia or Italy!
3. Greek Candy; unique and delicious, look for Greek Delight (comparable to Turkish Delight) and hard candies that will be available in any market you come across.
I was deathly ill when we arrived in Greece and completely out of money, so this list is short; I spent most of my time sleeping!
To Do:
1. Visit an island; I was vastly disappointed in the aesthetics of Athens, but apparently the islands are where the real beauty is. For a party-all-the-time island, try Mykonos. For cliff-jumping, go to Aegina.
2. Go to La Plaka; a stretch of shopping and restaurants to satisfy all cravings, from souvenirs to French fries and jewelry. All outdoors so it can be quite intense in the summer. For a more pleasant summer shopping experience, try:
3. The Athens Mall; incredibly large, with some very fun and different stores. We were only here for about an hour because we went on our last day (mistake!), but designate a good 3-4 hours for a truly extravagant shopping experience. Some of the stores are staggeringly expensive.
To Eat:
1. French fries!: Greece has some really fantastic French fries, and they serve them with everything, in all different shapes and sizes. Order them as a snack or with your gyro (generally, they will serve the gyro with the French frieGrs inside it—try it!).
2. Olives; I looked so forward to the olives in Greece, but the ones in Croatia and Italy were actually tastier, only because Greek olives are incredibly salty. They are still very good, but I can’t handle more than a few.
3. Feta; order it alone! Many times it will be served as a block, sprinkled with pepper and coated in olive oil. Grab a fork and share with a friend. It also goes very well with those French fries you ordered.
4. Meat; whether in the form of a gyro or just a chunk of it over a bed of fries or rice, the meat in Greece is fantastic. I particularly enjoyed the pork, especially when served as sausage with pita, yoghurt, hummus, and French fries. That was one of my favorite meals of the entire summer.
5. Baklava; delicious Greek pastry, often with nuts or sugar. Baklava is also found in Middle Eastern countries, but in different variations.
6. Ouzo; if hard liquor is your thing.
To Buy:
1. Olives; in case your life needs more salt!
2. Olive Oil; in case you didn’t pick any up in Croatia or Italy!
3. Greek Candy; unique and delicious, look for Greek Delight (comparable to Turkish Delight) and hard candies that will be available in any market you come across.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Micro-Mini Guides: Croatia
CROATIA:
To Do:
1. Cliff-jumping; you don’t have to go off the forty-footers. Stick to a smaller one and you will still feel the rush of jumping off a cliff into the Adriatic Sea. Make sure to go where other people are partaking in the activity; cliff-jumping can be dangerous.
2. See the peacocks at Lokrum Island (off the coast of Dubrovnik); they will let you touch them, if you are so inclined. There are an abundance of rather ugly females, but the male peacocks are quite spectacular and fun to watch.
3. Stay out at a club or bar until 6 AM; Croatians can party.
4. Snorkeling; few of the fish are colorful, but the Adriatic has the perfect temperament for this water activity, as well as others, including:
5. Go kayaking; rent one yourself so you can set your own pace. First-timers beware: this is an intense workout.
6. Travel to Bosnia or Montenegro; Mostar, Bosnia is just a three-hour bus ride from Dubrovnik, and Montenegro is even closer. Both are supposedly undiscovered gems.
7. Visit Old City in Dubrovnik; it is classically beautiful, and truly Mediterranean in style. There is good shopping and food, and the nightlife is not by any means tame.
8. Take a private boat tour; night ones are particularly fun. Many of the boats have glass bottoms so you can see what you are floating over, which is very intriguing. Those in Old City are rather inexpensive, and sometimes they will let you:
9. Go night swimming; the Adriatic stays warm all the time during the summer, and it is both scary and exciting to swim in it after dark, especially when you are on a boat, far from land!
To Eat:
1. Pizza; Croatia has surprisingly good pizza, and it is very, very cheap. Many places will offer discounts if you return.
2. Seafood; it is a bit more expensive than other Croatian food, but very good, especially when combined with pasta. Croatian Italian food is as good as the real thing in many places.
To Buy:
1. Coral Jewelry; you will find it everywhere, and it is high-quality, colorful, and very fun. Styles range from subtle to the very obnoxious, and one piece will likely be enough. Specifically, the rings are lovely.
2. Olive Oil; venture into Dubrovnik’s Old City to find the homemade olive oil stands that line the street. The flavored ones are especially delicious. Other foodstuffs are also offered, such as fig marmalade and sage honey (all are amazing).
3. Maps and other street artwork; it is cheap and high-quality. The art is good and the maps are interesting (I am a map-lover) and antique-looking
To Do:
1. Cliff-jumping; you don’t have to go off the forty-footers. Stick to a smaller one and you will still feel the rush of jumping off a cliff into the Adriatic Sea. Make sure to go where other people are partaking in the activity; cliff-jumping can be dangerous.
2. See the peacocks at Lokrum Island (off the coast of Dubrovnik); they will let you touch them, if you are so inclined. There are an abundance of rather ugly females, but the male peacocks are quite spectacular and fun to watch.
3. Stay out at a club or bar until 6 AM; Croatians can party.
4. Snorkeling; few of the fish are colorful, but the Adriatic has the perfect temperament for this water activity, as well as others, including:
5. Go kayaking; rent one yourself so you can set your own pace. First-timers beware: this is an intense workout.
6. Travel to Bosnia or Montenegro; Mostar, Bosnia is just a three-hour bus ride from Dubrovnik, and Montenegro is even closer. Both are supposedly undiscovered gems.
7. Visit Old City in Dubrovnik; it is classically beautiful, and truly Mediterranean in style. There is good shopping and food, and the nightlife is not by any means tame.
8. Take a private boat tour; night ones are particularly fun. Many of the boats have glass bottoms so you can see what you are floating over, which is very intriguing. Those in Old City are rather inexpensive, and sometimes they will let you:
9. Go night swimming; the Adriatic stays warm all the time during the summer, and it is both scary and exciting to swim in it after dark, especially when you are on a boat, far from land!
To Eat:
1. Pizza; Croatia has surprisingly good pizza, and it is very, very cheap. Many places will offer discounts if you return.
2. Seafood; it is a bit more expensive than other Croatian food, but very good, especially when combined with pasta. Croatian Italian food is as good as the real thing in many places.
To Buy:
1. Coral Jewelry; you will find it everywhere, and it is high-quality, colorful, and very fun. Styles range from subtle to the very obnoxious, and one piece will likely be enough. Specifically, the rings are lovely.
2. Olive Oil; venture into Dubrovnik’s Old City to find the homemade olive oil stands that line the street. The flavored ones are especially delicious. Other foodstuffs are also offered, such as fig marmalade and sage honey (all are amazing).
3. Maps and other street artwork; it is cheap and high-quality. The art is good and the maps are interesting (I am a map-lover) and antique-looking
Micro-Mini Guides: Italy
ITALY:
To Do:
1. Visit Capri; it is insanely and unnecessarily expensive, as Dolce and Gabbana, Prada, and Fendi stores line the streets. However, Capri has a very specific charm to it. With enough searching, one can locate a delicious five-dollar salami and cheese sandwich (albeit to accompany their ten dollar-beer), or a twenty-five dollar private boat ride around the island. The grottos off of Capri are incredible, see number 2.
2. Swim in the grottos of off Capri; if you are not prone to seasickness, a boat tour is a fantastic way to do this. Two hours was a little too much for me, but shorter ones are available. Swim in the green grotto and the blue grotto after 5 PM (to avoid paying), and get the most spectacular views of the island from all sides.
3. Hike Mt. Vesuvius; anyone can do it for a price! I believe it cost me $70 for a private guided tour, including an air-conditioned bus ride from our ship up 3000 meters of the volcano. IT IS WORTH IT. The views, even when it is foggy and you cannot see past your nose, are amazing. Whether one is an experienced hiker or not (I am absolutely not), the “difficult” trail is the one to take. While it is, of course, difficult at times, it is an unparalleled experience.
4. See the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel; the Trevi fountain is also nice, but not worth the crowds unless you truly are dying to see it. I recommend going on a rainy day, because the lines evaporate and St. Peter’s Basilica is a surprisingly worthwhile sight. I did not make it into the Sistine Chapel, but I imagine it’s quite gorgeous.
5. Relax on the Spanish Steps; it is quite entertaining to people watch and wonder what all the rich people who are shopping at Yves Saint Laurent do for a living. This is also a good way to meet people.
6. Go to Brandi’s; the place that invented pizza. As it is located in Naples and I spent my time in Capri, I did not get to go; Jill and Steph, however, raved about it and I cannot imagine that the place that invented pizza would have bad pizza.
7. Enjoy a cantaloupe or watermelon from a fruit stand; I didn’t see these in Naples, Capri, or Rome, but if you come across one, sit down and enjoy! The fruit is delicious and sweet; I am not at all a fan of melon but the cantaloupe I had was fresh and satisfying.
8. Visit Piazza Navona; I didn’t spend much time here, but Jill is a fan (read: it is her favorite place in all of Italy). Located in Rome, it has several restaurants and there is good boutique shopping nearby (antiques, murano glass, clothing).
To Eat:
There is certainly no shortage of incredible food in Italy, and rest assured that almost anything (if it is Italian) you order will be delicious, though it will also probably be expensive. Try not to be hungry between about 2 PM and 6 PM, because very few restaurants are open at this time, and the ones that are will be even more budget-breaking than usual. Notable eats include:
1. Pizza!; Italian pizza is incredible, and you won’t feel like a heifer after eating one.
2. Gelato; almost as good as Spain’s. In particular, Della Palma, in Rome, has more than 50 flavors to satisfy any ice-cream connoisseur.
3. Cheese; specifically, giant blocks of parmesan or balls of mozzarella. Order either as an appetizer and eat it with the crackers they serve you or by itself. On one night, I ate a block of parmesan with pear for dinner; it was an incredible combination! Even better, true Italian parmesan cheese contains an insane amount of protein and tastes very, very good.
4. Pork; salami, prosciutto, ham, it is all the best in Italy. Order it in pasta, on bruschetta, in a sandwich, or by itself and enjoy!
5. Limoncello; I saw entire stores dedicated to Italy’s signature hard liquor. It is bottled beautifully, bright yellow, and is deceivingly tasty-looking. I did not try it but is apparently quite potent. Drink carefully!
6. Olives; as many as you can.
To Buy:
1. Limoncello; if anything, it will look nice in your kitchen. We weren’t allowed to bring alcohol on the ship, but this would have been the bottle I brought on.
2. Murano glass; an Italian specialty, all sorts of things are made from it. The jewelry did not particularly tug my boat, but I did pick up a wine stopper made from the glass as well as some VERY expensive beads.
3. Mt. Vesuvius lava figurines; if you hike the volcano, you’ll find two small gift shops with figures made of the lava. They make very unique souvenirs and also serve as happy reminders of your volcano conquering.
4. Olive Oil; I will recommend buying this in other countries as well, but Italian olive oil is, of course, the ultimate.
To Do:
1. Visit Capri; it is insanely and unnecessarily expensive, as Dolce and Gabbana, Prada, and Fendi stores line the streets. However, Capri has a very specific charm to it. With enough searching, one can locate a delicious five-dollar salami and cheese sandwich (albeit to accompany their ten dollar-beer), or a twenty-five dollar private boat ride around the island. The grottos off of Capri are incredible, see number 2.
2. Swim in the grottos of off Capri; if you are not prone to seasickness, a boat tour is a fantastic way to do this. Two hours was a little too much for me, but shorter ones are available. Swim in the green grotto and the blue grotto after 5 PM (to avoid paying), and get the most spectacular views of the island from all sides.
3. Hike Mt. Vesuvius; anyone can do it for a price! I believe it cost me $70 for a private guided tour, including an air-conditioned bus ride from our ship up 3000 meters of the volcano. IT IS WORTH IT. The views, even when it is foggy and you cannot see past your nose, are amazing. Whether one is an experienced hiker or not (I am absolutely not), the “difficult” trail is the one to take. While it is, of course, difficult at times, it is an unparalleled experience.
4. See the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel; the Trevi fountain is also nice, but not worth the crowds unless you truly are dying to see it. I recommend going on a rainy day, because the lines evaporate and St. Peter’s Basilica is a surprisingly worthwhile sight. I did not make it into the Sistine Chapel, but I imagine it’s quite gorgeous.
5. Relax on the Spanish Steps; it is quite entertaining to people watch and wonder what all the rich people who are shopping at Yves Saint Laurent do for a living. This is also a good way to meet people.
6. Go to Brandi’s; the place that invented pizza. As it is located in Naples and I spent my time in Capri, I did not get to go; Jill and Steph, however, raved about it and I cannot imagine that the place that invented pizza would have bad pizza.
7. Enjoy a cantaloupe or watermelon from a fruit stand; I didn’t see these in Naples, Capri, or Rome, but if you come across one, sit down and enjoy! The fruit is delicious and sweet; I am not at all a fan of melon but the cantaloupe I had was fresh and satisfying.
8. Visit Piazza Navona; I didn’t spend much time here, but Jill is a fan (read: it is her favorite place in all of Italy). Located in Rome, it has several restaurants and there is good boutique shopping nearby (antiques, murano glass, clothing).
To Eat:
There is certainly no shortage of incredible food in Italy, and rest assured that almost anything (if it is Italian) you order will be delicious, though it will also probably be expensive. Try not to be hungry between about 2 PM and 6 PM, because very few restaurants are open at this time, and the ones that are will be even more budget-breaking than usual. Notable eats include:
1. Pizza!; Italian pizza is incredible, and you won’t feel like a heifer after eating one.
2. Gelato; almost as good as Spain’s. In particular, Della Palma, in Rome, has more than 50 flavors to satisfy any ice-cream connoisseur.
3. Cheese; specifically, giant blocks of parmesan or balls of mozzarella. Order either as an appetizer and eat it with the crackers they serve you or by itself. On one night, I ate a block of parmesan with pear for dinner; it was an incredible combination! Even better, true Italian parmesan cheese contains an insane amount of protein and tastes very, very good.
4. Pork; salami, prosciutto, ham, it is all the best in Italy. Order it in pasta, on bruschetta, in a sandwich, or by itself and enjoy!
5. Limoncello; I saw entire stores dedicated to Italy’s signature hard liquor. It is bottled beautifully, bright yellow, and is deceivingly tasty-looking. I did not try it but is apparently quite potent. Drink carefully!
6. Olives; as many as you can.
To Buy:
1. Limoncello; if anything, it will look nice in your kitchen. We weren’t allowed to bring alcohol on the ship, but this would have been the bottle I brought on.
2. Murano glass; an Italian specialty, all sorts of things are made from it. The jewelry did not particularly tug my boat, but I did pick up a wine stopper made from the glass as well as some VERY expensive beads.
3. Mt. Vesuvius lava figurines; if you hike the volcano, you’ll find two small gift shops with figures made of the lava. They make very unique souvenirs and also serve as happy reminders of your volcano conquering.
4. Olive Oil; I will recommend buying this in other countries as well, but Italian olive oil is, of course, the ultimate.
Monday, August 17, 2009
In Retrospect
Over the course of this past summer, I have compiled in my head all the best things about each country I have visited. If I ever return (which I hope to do) to these places, I would want a list of all the best things to do, eat, and buy. Consequently I will be putting together micro-miniature guides to all 8 countries, including what I have observed are the most rewarding things to see, consume, and purchase. Of course, I was only in each country for 4-5 days, so it’s an amateur’s perspective; however, for first-timers it would be convenient as well as for my future second-timer self.
Following is the first installment.
SPAIN:
To Do:
1. Go to a soccer game; I didn’t actually do this, but while we were there, the US beat Spain and everyone had something to say about it. The games are supposedly insane.
2. See the sunflower fields; they are incredible, and they are everywhere.
3. Go to the Ice Bar in Barcelona; I did not do this either, but I wish I had. Apparently it is quite the experience, they give you coats at the entrance.
4. Speak Spanish; even if it is just a few words, they will appreciate it. Spain speaks less English than any other European country, and knowing some words or phrases will also help ensure better service, especially when polite and engaging.
5. Go topless at the beach; this is the country for first-timers. I saw more topless women and naked children on the beaches in Spain than in Bulgaria, Italy, Greece, and Croatia combined.
6. Visit a bull ring; stand right in the center and imagine what happens/has happened right where you are.
7. See flamenco dancers; Spanish tradition, I wish I had done it. Those who went had nothing but good things to say.
To Eat:
1. Paella; duh. There are so many different varieties that everyone will be able to find one that they like.
2. Sangria; I’ve never had better, it has just the right amount of sweetness.
3. Churros; In particular, the chocolate ones.
4. Gelato; in my opinion, better than Italy’s. Get just one scoop atop an extra long cone…I recommend mint chocolate chip or flavors you don’t generally find elsewhere, like Nutella or the European favorite: Stracchiatella (vanilla with small balls of chocolate).
5. Shrimp pancakes; I am not shrimp’s biggest fan, but they are incredible! Ignore the onions.
To Buy:
1. A tiled bull souvenir; they come in all different colors, but I prefer the black ones. They are sold everywhere, and don’t look like your average picked-it-up-at-a-souvenir-shop trinket.
2. A fan; an absolute MUST for the summertime. Fans can be magical when it is surpassing 100 degrees and you are on a three-hour guided walking tour.
3. Clothing; look for the sales because the Euro is a killer. Spain has fantastic shopping and you can find a number of stores and items that are not available in the US. My favorite was a store called Blanco; everything in it was 50% off and the quality was rather good. It was comparable to H&M in style.
4. A soccer jersey; if you are a fan.
Following is the first installment.
SPAIN:
To Do:
1. Go to a soccer game; I didn’t actually do this, but while we were there, the US beat Spain and everyone had something to say about it. The games are supposedly insane.
2. See the sunflower fields; they are incredible, and they are everywhere.
3. Go to the Ice Bar in Barcelona; I did not do this either, but I wish I had. Apparently it is quite the experience, they give you coats at the entrance.
4. Speak Spanish; even if it is just a few words, they will appreciate it. Spain speaks less English than any other European country, and knowing some words or phrases will also help ensure better service, especially when polite and engaging.
5. Go topless at the beach; this is the country for first-timers. I saw more topless women and naked children on the beaches in Spain than in Bulgaria, Italy, Greece, and Croatia combined.
6. Visit a bull ring; stand right in the center and imagine what happens/has happened right where you are.
7. See flamenco dancers; Spanish tradition, I wish I had done it. Those who went had nothing but good things to say.
To Eat:
1. Paella; duh. There are so many different varieties that everyone will be able to find one that they like.
2. Sangria; I’ve never had better, it has just the right amount of sweetness.
3. Churros; In particular, the chocolate ones.
4. Gelato; in my opinion, better than Italy’s. Get just one scoop atop an extra long cone…I recommend mint chocolate chip or flavors you don’t generally find elsewhere, like Nutella or the European favorite: Stracchiatella (vanilla with small balls of chocolate).
5. Shrimp pancakes; I am not shrimp’s biggest fan, but they are incredible! Ignore the onions.
To Buy:
1. A tiled bull souvenir; they come in all different colors, but I prefer the black ones. They are sold everywhere, and don’t look like your average picked-it-up-at-a-souvenir-shop trinket.
2. A fan; an absolute MUST for the summertime. Fans can be magical when it is surpassing 100 degrees and you are on a three-hour guided walking tour.
3. Clothing; look for the sales because the Euro is a killer. Spain has fantastic shopping and you can find a number of stores and items that are not available in the US. My favorite was a store called Blanco; everything in it was 50% off and the quality was rather good. It was comparable to H&M in style.
4. A soccer jersey; if you are a fan.
Casablanca, Morocco: Days 3 and 4
On our second day in Marrakesh (third in Morocco), we awoke at 7 AM for a mediocre breakfast at the hotel before we set out on our full-day tour of the city. Our first stop was a mosque, where we spent about ten minutes viewing the outside of it. We then headed for a mausoleum (I didn’t pay attention very well), where we spent some time taking pictures and walking through the gardens around it. We then went to a shopping area of Marrakesh, where we had one hour to spend in a gigantic store containing all sorts of things, from antique teapots and jewelry to old-school telephones and keychains. It was slightly expensive, but at least the prices were set; I am so sick of haggling! I hate that it is impossible for me to walk away with a good deal. I spent a fair amount of money at the department-like store and we then went to a palace-turned-tourist-destination. Most of us began to crash at this point and it was incredibly hot; we wandered slowly behind our tour guide, eyes glazed. The palace was absolutely gorgeous and I had my room(s) all picked out; unfortunately, I was not in a very appreciative mood.
After an hour or so at the Moroccan palace, we left for lunch. We walked down a narrow alleyway and through and very smelly market selling live chickens and fresh fruit to get to an upstairs restaurant similar to the one we ate at the day before. It was dimly lit and a bit dingy but very beautiful. We had a meal comparable to the one the day before, although the salad was mediocre and there was no fried cream cheese :[
After lunch and more watermelon (bleh), we set out for the Riad de Epices! It was a Berber Pharmacy and a very lovely place; the walls were lined with jars filled with spices and colorful argan oil (something found ONLY in Morocco) cosmetics and lanterns hung low from the ceiling. We all gathered in a room while the woman who worked there talked to us about the different types of products they offered, ranging from psoriasis cream to sandalwood perfume and spice mixtures. I was floored when I heard the prices; the mint tea I had been dying to buy? $4 for a 6”x3” bag! Buy two get one free!! I loaded up a bigger bag than anyone else and left that pharmacy forty-five dollars lighter. You will all thank me! My favorite purchase was a bag of black grain, which can be used for all sorts of things; the most interesting is congestion: place a teaspoon of the grain in a porous type of paper (or something), then rub it against skin to get it warm. Sniff deeply and congestion is alleviated! I could smell that grain for an hour afterwards.
After we left the pharmacy, we did EVEN MORE SHOPPING at the square we had been at the night before. I bought a gorgeous silver lantern that, while it is a bit ghetto, looks incredible when lit. It was only 10 dollars, and trust me, it was worth it. The harassment and heat were at an all-time high as it was the middle of the day, and I sought refuge back on the bus. While some continued on to the botanical gardens (I wanted to go but I was disgustingly worn out and it cost money I did not have), most of us opted to go back to the hotel. We again congregated at the pool bar before I went down for a nap. We had dinner again at 8 PM, and it was again mediocre; I chose not to go out that night, to the dismay of my peers (“It’s our last night out in our last country and you’re not coming?!”). My roommate was gone for the night and the only thing in English on TV was a scary movie. Even worse, I could not get my balcony door to lock and so I slept with the lights on that night. After so long with a roommate and a ship full of 1,000 other people, I desperately fear being alone again so soon!
The next morning I rose and met the rest of my trip for another pseudo-breakfast (even worse than the ship breakfasts!) before our three and a half hour ride back to Casablanca, where I collapsed in my bed for a much-needed rest before we departed for our last port of call: NORFOLK, VIRGINIA, USA!
After an hour or so at the Moroccan palace, we left for lunch. We walked down a narrow alleyway and through and very smelly market selling live chickens and fresh fruit to get to an upstairs restaurant similar to the one we ate at the day before. It was dimly lit and a bit dingy but very beautiful. We had a meal comparable to the one the day before, although the salad was mediocre and there was no fried cream cheese :[
After lunch and more watermelon (bleh), we set out for the Riad de Epices! It was a Berber Pharmacy and a very lovely place; the walls were lined with jars filled with spices and colorful argan oil (something found ONLY in Morocco) cosmetics and lanterns hung low from the ceiling. We all gathered in a room while the woman who worked there talked to us about the different types of products they offered, ranging from psoriasis cream to sandalwood perfume and spice mixtures. I was floored when I heard the prices; the mint tea I had been dying to buy? $4 for a 6”x3” bag! Buy two get one free!! I loaded up a bigger bag than anyone else and left that pharmacy forty-five dollars lighter. You will all thank me! My favorite purchase was a bag of black grain, which can be used for all sorts of things; the most interesting is congestion: place a teaspoon of the grain in a porous type of paper (or something), then rub it against skin to get it warm. Sniff deeply and congestion is alleviated! I could smell that grain for an hour afterwards.
After we left the pharmacy, we did EVEN MORE SHOPPING at the square we had been at the night before. I bought a gorgeous silver lantern that, while it is a bit ghetto, looks incredible when lit. It was only 10 dollars, and trust me, it was worth it. The harassment and heat were at an all-time high as it was the middle of the day, and I sought refuge back on the bus. While some continued on to the botanical gardens (I wanted to go but I was disgustingly worn out and it cost money I did not have), most of us opted to go back to the hotel. We again congregated at the pool bar before I went down for a nap. We had dinner again at 8 PM, and it was again mediocre; I chose not to go out that night, to the dismay of my peers (“It’s our last night out in our last country and you’re not coming?!”). My roommate was gone for the night and the only thing in English on TV was a scary movie. Even worse, I could not get my balcony door to lock and so I slept with the lights on that night. After so long with a roommate and a ship full of 1,000 other people, I desperately fear being alone again so soon!
The next morning I rose and met the rest of my trip for another pseudo-breakfast (even worse than the ship breakfasts!) before our three and a half hour ride back to Casablanca, where I collapsed in my bed for a much-needed rest before we departed for our last port of call: NORFOLK, VIRGINIA, USA!
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Casablanca, Morocco: Day 2
I had a trip planned through Semester at Sea for the last three days in Morocco. I knew only two people going: Corey and Brady, and we boarded a bus headed to Marrakesh at 8 AM. After two hours of sleeping, we stopped at a gas station, where I picked up some Moroccan treats (actually, they were mostly French) for all of you back home. We again boarded the bus and continued our journey, which I stayed awake for. The Moroccan countryside looks surprisingly similar to the drive up to San Francisco from Los Angeles—on the 5. It was very dull, brown scenery. I much preferred our drive through Egypt (I say Egipto now—the Spanish equivalent—because it is so fun to say. Try it. Ee-HIP-thoe.)
Just before Marrakesh, we stopped for lunch in a completely empty, very beautiful Moroccan restaurant, filled with gorgeous fabric couches and tapestries. We enjoyed a Moroccan salad first: white rice, white beans, lentils, peppers, potatoes, chutney, and spicy sauce, yum. It was a giant plate placed in the center of our table, from which all eight of us took spoonfuls of the ingredients we wanted. I piled lentils, white beans, and spicy sauce on my bread and filled myself up before our second course, which was also incredibly delicious. We were served a plate with two different types of fried treats: triangular pastries filled with beef, and little rolls of cream cheese in a flaky crust; all was piping hot. I enjoyed my cream cheese rolls while the others devoured the meat triangles. Our final course was again family-style: a giant bowl-plate filled with cous cous, vegetables, and beef (they had chicken made especially for me, but I was far too full and gave most of it away). We finished with watermelon, which was the lowest point in my meal only because I am not a fan of the seedy fruit.
After lunch we set out for…camel riding! Yay! More camels! Now, I have no idea what our guides or organizers were thinking when they set up our day, because although the day had begun with cool weather, by 2 PM (when we began our TWO HOUR trek) the sun was burning bright and hard. I would have much rather camel-ridden before lunch, and before the hottest part of the day. We are in Africa! It is August! HELLO! So, we climbed upon our camels, which was a task in itself as those camels were screaming like they had had just about enough for one lifetime. When they were supposed to sit, they stood. When they were asked to stand, they sat. As they were all tied together, one camel committing disobedience subsequently led to all of the camels doing so. I was placed on the second camel in line, whose cushions were falling off at a fairly severe angle. I was hyperventilating the first few minutes, asking our guide several times if I was going to die, at which he laughed. Those camels are high up! When you are falling off and walking next to thorny bushes, these are the thoughts that pass through your mind. After about forty minutes of failing to readjust and whimpering quietly to myself, we arrived at a traditional Berber (main population of Morocco) household, where we enjoyed some Moroccan music and delicious Moroccan tea (I’m bringing plenty home!). After a twenty-minute rest, we went back to our camels. I refused to board the same one, and after everyone else had climbed on theirs, they all stood without me! I shrieked quite loudly when three of the guides grabbed my legs without warning and hoisted me up onto the first camel, behind the girl who was already seated on it. Like I said, those camels are high up and that was not an easy task. While her cushions were on straight, there seemed to be a metal bar straight down the center of it (???), making for a very uncomfortable ride and a very sore bum over the next two days.
After two hours in the hot hot hot sun, I was ready to enjoy my hotel. We set out for the Imperial Plaza Hotel and Spa, which sounds a lot nicer than it actually is. Over the course of the next two days, several students found their rooms filled with ash and unclean, two students had their clothes dyed black when the reception counter was painted and no sign was put up, and all of us were put out when the receptionists checked us all out early and our keys no longer worked. My room in particular was smaller than the rest, with no balcony, twin beds, and only one pillow and one towel. I’m not sure what the five hundred dollars I paid for this trip went towards, but I really hope that most of it did not go to the hotel.
My roommate and I settled in to our hotel room and showered, after which I received a phone call to the room: “HELLO!” I responded, “hello, yes?” “DO YOU KNOW WHO THIS IS MADELINE!” I guessed correctly! It was Tom, who had somehow found his way to Marrakesh and our hotel on his own (he was not on our trip). He was to stay with Brady and Corey in their room that night, but he could not find their name on the list and called me instead. We went up to the pool (on the sixth floor), where we found some other trip participants, including Brady and Corey, at the bar. We joined them for awhile before our 8 PM buffet dinner at the hotel, which was somewhat disappointing. Tom, of course, quite enjoyed it, as it was a free meal for him. After we ate, fifteen or so of us gathered in one of the larger hotel rooms before heading out to the “square.” When we arrived at the “square,” we were perplexed by how insanely packed it was at midnight, as people shopped and ate and played with monkeys…
We, however, stood around for quite awhile doing nothing. We were too large a group, and although I wanted to walk around and see the stalls and look at what they were selling, most everyone else wanted to PARTY PARTY PARTY and I was outnumbered. Every place that was suggested required an entrance fee, however, which I was not going to pay. I’m a GIRL! Girls never pay to get into clubs (that’s the rule). I went back to the hotel with another girl who was less than amused, and I was asleep by 1 AM.
Just before Marrakesh, we stopped for lunch in a completely empty, very beautiful Moroccan restaurant, filled with gorgeous fabric couches and tapestries. We enjoyed a Moroccan salad first: white rice, white beans, lentils, peppers, potatoes, chutney, and spicy sauce, yum. It was a giant plate placed in the center of our table, from which all eight of us took spoonfuls of the ingredients we wanted. I piled lentils, white beans, and spicy sauce on my bread and filled myself up before our second course, which was also incredibly delicious. We were served a plate with two different types of fried treats: triangular pastries filled with beef, and little rolls of cream cheese in a flaky crust; all was piping hot. I enjoyed my cream cheese rolls while the others devoured the meat triangles. Our final course was again family-style: a giant bowl-plate filled with cous cous, vegetables, and beef (they had chicken made especially for me, but I was far too full and gave most of it away). We finished with watermelon, which was the lowest point in my meal only because I am not a fan of the seedy fruit.
After lunch we set out for…camel riding! Yay! More camels! Now, I have no idea what our guides or organizers were thinking when they set up our day, because although the day had begun with cool weather, by 2 PM (when we began our TWO HOUR trek) the sun was burning bright and hard. I would have much rather camel-ridden before lunch, and before the hottest part of the day. We are in Africa! It is August! HELLO! So, we climbed upon our camels, which was a task in itself as those camels were screaming like they had had just about enough for one lifetime. When they were supposed to sit, they stood. When they were asked to stand, they sat. As they were all tied together, one camel committing disobedience subsequently led to all of the camels doing so. I was placed on the second camel in line, whose cushions were falling off at a fairly severe angle. I was hyperventilating the first few minutes, asking our guide several times if I was going to die, at which he laughed. Those camels are high up! When you are falling off and walking next to thorny bushes, these are the thoughts that pass through your mind. After about forty minutes of failing to readjust and whimpering quietly to myself, we arrived at a traditional Berber (main population of Morocco) household, where we enjoyed some Moroccan music and delicious Moroccan tea (I’m bringing plenty home!). After a twenty-minute rest, we went back to our camels. I refused to board the same one, and after everyone else had climbed on theirs, they all stood without me! I shrieked quite loudly when three of the guides grabbed my legs without warning and hoisted me up onto the first camel, behind the girl who was already seated on it. Like I said, those camels are high up and that was not an easy task. While her cushions were on straight, there seemed to be a metal bar straight down the center of it (???), making for a very uncomfortable ride and a very sore bum over the next two days.
After two hours in the hot hot hot sun, I was ready to enjoy my hotel. We set out for the Imperial Plaza Hotel and Spa, which sounds a lot nicer than it actually is. Over the course of the next two days, several students found their rooms filled with ash and unclean, two students had their clothes dyed black when the reception counter was painted and no sign was put up, and all of us were put out when the receptionists checked us all out early and our keys no longer worked. My room in particular was smaller than the rest, with no balcony, twin beds, and only one pillow and one towel. I’m not sure what the five hundred dollars I paid for this trip went towards, but I really hope that most of it did not go to the hotel.
My roommate and I settled in to our hotel room and showered, after which I received a phone call to the room: “HELLO!” I responded, “hello, yes?” “DO YOU KNOW WHO THIS IS MADELINE!” I guessed correctly! It was Tom, who had somehow found his way to Marrakesh and our hotel on his own (he was not on our trip). He was to stay with Brady and Corey in their room that night, but he could not find their name on the list and called me instead. We went up to the pool (on the sixth floor), where we found some other trip participants, including Brady and Corey, at the bar. We joined them for awhile before our 8 PM buffet dinner at the hotel, which was somewhat disappointing. Tom, of course, quite enjoyed it, as it was a free meal for him. After we ate, fifteen or so of us gathered in one of the larger hotel rooms before heading out to the “square.” When we arrived at the “square,” we were perplexed by how insanely packed it was at midnight, as people shopped and ate and played with monkeys…
We, however, stood around for quite awhile doing nothing. We were too large a group, and although I wanted to walk around and see the stalls and look at what they were selling, most everyone else wanted to PARTY PARTY PARTY and I was outnumbered. Every place that was suggested required an entrance fee, however, which I was not going to pay. I’m a GIRL! Girls never pay to get into clubs (that’s the rule). I went back to the hotel with another girl who was less than amused, and I was asleep by 1 AM.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Casablanca, Morocco: Day 1
On our first day in Morocco, Jill and Steph (and Steph’s mom, who had come to Morocco to visit her) went on the Casablanca City Orientation, so I spent the day with Brady. We set out in search of a bar and shopping, settling first into a hole in the wall spot with no lights whatsoever and a hole in the ground (literally) to pee in. We drank the local beer and ate ketchup flavored fried chip-like…things. I won about 5 games of War before we left to look for shopping. We stopped first at a stand selling what looked like a delicious treat: fried dough, sort of like a donut. We ordered two and watched with delight as they sliced each one open longways before spreading peach honey inside and then dipping the entire concoction in sugar. It was absolutely the most amazing thing I have eaten this entire summer. They invited me back to make some with them, at which I failed miserably; this surprised me, as it was not a difficult task. The knives were not sharp enough! This is my excuse.
After two binis (the aforementioned deliciousness) each, Brady and I continued walking. It only took us about a minute and a half to find our next distraction: neon chicks. It is exactly what it sounds like: baby chickens dyed all different colors of the neon rainbow. The pink ones were the most vibrant, but there were also yellow, green, and orange little bumpkins running around. The vendor placed one in each of my hands and I marveled at the cuteness for a few minutes before he grabbed them back and began packaging them for me to take home. Brady had to basically peel me away so that I didn’t purchase something I could do absolutely nothing with.
We finally found shopping! Albeit, the bazaar was less than a five minute walk from the port, but we had made several stops. I purchased some items and we browsed for a bit, annoyed only when one particular little boy would not leave us alone. He grabbed my hand and kissed it, scaring me half to death, and then looked up at me with sad puppy-dog eyes only a seasoned beggar could have. After we left the bazaar, we went back to the bar for a drink before heading back to the ship for a nap. I spent the rest of the night sleeping, electing not to go to Rick’s Café (from the movie Casablanca), because it is notoriously expensive and I have never seen Casablanca anyway!
After two binis (the aforementioned deliciousness) each, Brady and I continued walking. It only took us about a minute and a half to find our next distraction: neon chicks. It is exactly what it sounds like: baby chickens dyed all different colors of the neon rainbow. The pink ones were the most vibrant, but there were also yellow, green, and orange little bumpkins running around. The vendor placed one in each of my hands and I marveled at the cuteness for a few minutes before he grabbed them back and began packaging them for me to take home. Brady had to basically peel me away so that I didn’t purchase something I could do absolutely nothing with.
We finally found shopping! Albeit, the bazaar was less than a five minute walk from the port, but we had made several stops. I purchased some items and we browsed for a bit, annoyed only when one particular little boy would not leave us alone. He grabbed my hand and kissed it, scaring me half to death, and then looked up at me with sad puppy-dog eyes only a seasoned beggar could have. After we left the bazaar, we went back to the bar for a drink before heading back to the ship for a nap. I spent the rest of the night sleeping, electing not to go to Rick’s Café (from the movie Casablanca), because it is notoriously expensive and I have never seen Casablanca anyway!
Friday, August 7, 2009
Alexandria, Egypt: Days 4 and 5
On our fourth day in Egypt, we received our wake-up call at 6 AM, and it surprisingly felt even worse to wake up after 6 hours of sleep than after 3 or 4! We ate breakfast and left the hotel for the Karnak Temple, an ancient temple that, according to our guide, brings grown men to tears. We arrived at the temple and spent an hour there viewing the enormous ruins (60 acres or something..). Afterwards, just as in every other site we had been to, we were herded down an alleyway separate from the entrance we had come through. This alleyway was filled with shops and about twenty men holding trinkets and such, who swarmed the tourists when they were exiting. As I was the first in the crowd, I got the bulk of it and by the end felt very mean as I found myself shouting at these people to “LEAVE ME ALONE!” I had gone through the same deal at Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple, the Alabaster Mosque, the Great Pyramids, and just about every other place we needed a ticket to get into. It was quite ridiculous; they need someone to coach them in approaching foreigners. For example: Steph admitted that she had wanted to shop but was too intimidated to do so, and if they had left her alone she would have been far more likely to make a purchase. Culture clash.
After the Temple we (Group A) left for the airport for our flight back to Cairo. Once we arrived, we returned to the Le Meridian Hotel for a buffet lunch before the drive back to Alexandria. I spent the night playing cards with Tom and went to bed early as I was incredibly tired. The next morning, Tom and I went to an internet café, where he learned to skype and I had a nice two-hour video chat with James. I was scolded by a bitter Semester-at-Sea-er who asserted that skyping uses too much bandwidth and we should refrain so that she could use the internet. I basically told her to shove it.
After four hours in the internet café (at one dollar an hour it was quite the deal), Tom and I returned to the ship, where we were invited by Jill to go to lunch with her, Steph, and her new Egyptian friend. He picked the four of us up and we drove to a restaurant where we settled into a large table on the outdoor patio and discussed the differences in our cultures (for a solid two hours), after which we returned to the ship before our departure for Casablanca.
After the Temple we (Group A) left for the airport for our flight back to Cairo. Once we arrived, we returned to the Le Meridian Hotel for a buffet lunch before the drive back to Alexandria. I spent the night playing cards with Tom and went to bed early as I was incredibly tired. The next morning, Tom and I went to an internet café, where he learned to skype and I had a nice two-hour video chat with James. I was scolded by a bitter Semester-at-Sea-er who asserted that skyping uses too much bandwidth and we should refrain so that she could use the internet. I basically told her to shove it.
After four hours in the internet café (at one dollar an hour it was quite the deal), Tom and I returned to the ship, where we were invited by Jill to go to lunch with her, Steph, and her new Egyptian friend. He picked the four of us up and we drove to a restaurant where we settled into a large table on the outdoor patio and discussed the differences in our cultures (for a solid two hours), after which we returned to the ship before our departure for Casablanca.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Alexandria, Egypt: Day 3
We again were awoken at 4 AM, this time for our plane ride to Luxor. We took the 7:15 AM flight out of Cairo and most of us slept the hour it took to get there. Once we arrived, we immediately set out for the Valley of the Kings, an ancient burial ground created after the pyramids in response to tomb raiders. Instead of building pyramids which everyone could find, underground passageways and chambers were the burial method. The Valley of the Kings houses 64 tombs, including King Tut’s (which I did not enter because that $20 was not in my budget). The tombs were incredible! The colors of the drawings on the walls were still so vibrant that it is shocking to realize they are three thousand years old. We wandered two of the tombs, vastly mystified by the endurance of the blues, reds, and greens. One of the tombs was so far underground that stairs gave way to ramps, which cause us quite extreme exhaustion on our way back up. Luxor was incredibly hot; if Cairo was 95 degrees, then Luxor was generally 107. Valley of the Kings did become miserable after awhile, and Steph and I eventually took refuge in the shade under several fans while we waited for our group to assemble.
After the Valley of the Kings, we journeyed to the seemingly even hotter (is it possible?!) area that encompassed Queen Hatshepsut’s (a significant female pharaoh who considered herself both male and female) Temple. We spent only about a half hour there, wandering the vast temple, built into the side of a giant brown cliff. After Hatshepsut’s Temple, we made a quick stop to view the Colossi of Memnon, two giant statues next to each other. After spending three hours straight in the unbearable heat, I was content to take one picture and jump right back on the bus.
After the majority of our sights for the day had been seen, our buses headed to our hotel in Luxor for a buffet! lunch and free time (YES). The buffets at our Luxor hotel was far superior to those of the other places we had been, in particular the plantains they had for dinner later and the breakfast they served the next morning (mm chicken sausage). I did a little shopping and purchased some papyrus (apparently a must for Egypt) and then took a short nap before our 6 PM departure for the Luxor Temple, which was quite a sight. It was beautiful and intriguing, though the heat really did not add to the experience. When we returned to the hotel, we had dinner (I engulfed about 8 fried plantains…) and then I went with Steph and several others to enjoy a show in the hotel’s courtyard. We ordered shisha and watched women bellydance and men perform the dervish. These performers were absolutely superior to those we’d seen on the Nile riverboat, and when they came to insist that I dance with them, I did not refuse. Later on, they performed a large group dance in which at least ten of us (the audience was largely Semester at Sea) participated. It was quite fun, actually, and I felt it was a very nice way to end the day. Though some went on to a pub across the street, I was content to go to sleep, as it was midnight and we had, of course, a 6 AM wake up call.
After the Valley of the Kings, we journeyed to the seemingly even hotter (is it possible?!) area that encompassed Queen Hatshepsut’s (a significant female pharaoh who considered herself both male and female) Temple. We spent only about a half hour there, wandering the vast temple, built into the side of a giant brown cliff. After Hatshepsut’s Temple, we made a quick stop to view the Colossi of Memnon, two giant statues next to each other. After spending three hours straight in the unbearable heat, I was content to take one picture and jump right back on the bus.
After the majority of our sights for the day had been seen, our buses headed to our hotel in Luxor for a buffet! lunch and free time (YES). The buffets at our Luxor hotel was far superior to those of the other places we had been, in particular the plantains they had for dinner later and the breakfast they served the next morning (mm chicken sausage). I did a little shopping and purchased some papyrus (apparently a must for Egypt) and then took a short nap before our 6 PM departure for the Luxor Temple, which was quite a sight. It was beautiful and intriguing, though the heat really did not add to the experience. When we returned to the hotel, we had dinner (I engulfed about 8 fried plantains…) and then I went with Steph and several others to enjoy a show in the hotel’s courtyard. We ordered shisha and watched women bellydance and men perform the dervish. These performers were absolutely superior to those we’d seen on the Nile riverboat, and when they came to insist that I dance with them, I did not refuse. Later on, they performed a large group dance in which at least ten of us (the audience was largely Semester at Sea) participated. It was quite fun, actually, and I felt it was a very nice way to end the day. Though some went on to a pub across the street, I was content to go to sleep, as it was midnight and we had, of course, a 6 AM wake up call.
Alexandria, Egypt: Day 2
Following a 4 AM wake up call, we boarded our buses for the short drive to the Great Pyramids at Gizeh (what I have been anticipating since I applied for this trip!!), where we drove to a panoramic lookout in order to watch the sun rise above the three ancient legends. It was quite spectacular to watch, and although several Semester at Sea-ers chose to completely disregard the fact that other people were there and journeyed closer (only to make it impossible for us to get a picture of the pyramids without them in it!), it was absolutely the best sunrise I have ever and likely will ever see. I am only sorry that I didn’t have a better camera to capture it with (this is a stab at you, Mom!)…
After oogling the rising sun for an hour and a half, we returned to the bus and air conditioning to await our camel rides. Steph and I climbed onto a camel together for ten dollars each, jerking and rocking as the camel swayed from side to side. They are much larger creatures than I had anticipated! We rode closer to the pyramids and then back to the bus to be transported to our second pyramid stop: the ground between the bases of Cheops and Khafre. We stood for awhile, taking pictures and warding off the preying vendors shouting “ONE DOLLAR! ONE DOLLAR!” Our last stop was the Sphinx, which was significantly smaller than I had pictured it in my mind. The final view, of the Sphinx in the foreground and the three pyramids behind it, was quite incredible and an image I will not soon forget.
After our final viewing of the pyramids, it was nearly 10 AM as we headed for the Archaeological Museum in Cairo. It was repulsively hot as we debarked our bus, and of course the museum was not air-conditioned. The museum is about the point in the day when the majority of the group began hitting walls (we had been awake for six hours and had gotten less than four hours of sleep the night before, after all). The attendants in the bathrooms required one Egyptian pound if we were to be given toilet paper, but of course most of us only had one- and two-hundred bills, and as our bladders expanded it made the heat that much more unbearable. I needed to see the museum for my Art History class, and so I jotted down several notes before Steph and I left the group early to hide out in the air-conditioned gift shop, which was claustrophobically small and crowded, selling next to nothing besides postcards.
At noon we left the museum and drove to the Nile, where a riverboat awaited our arrival for lunch. We had another buffet while we cruised the infamous river (much dirtier/urban than I’d imagined), and then viewed a mediocre dervish performance followed by a less-than-mediocre belly dancing performance (more breast dancing than belly dancing). After lunch we were driven to YET ANOTHER site, the famous Alabaster Mosque. It was gorgeous, decorated in green and gold with lanterns strung all around. I have seen an insane amount of cathedrals over the past few months and this was the first mosque I had ever entered; according to my personal taste, the beauty of this mosque far outweighed any cathedral I had ever been in (and I have been in the Vatican). I learned today that Muslims do not generally create images in their buildings—as this duty is God’s alone—and I believe that the simpler motif of color and delicate decoration, as opposed to the opulence of Christianity, far better suits my aesthetic taste. We sat on the carpet in the mosque as our guide explained to us the basics of Islam and then gave us the opportunity to ask questions. Finding out a bit about Islam is something I strongly encourage everyone to do, as in western societies it is a religion that is terribly misconstrued due to the fact that many people are content not to look past September 11th. Instead, they judge another (very large and diverse) culture without knowing anything about it—save that there are several people who have DEVIATED from the religious norm and committed great atrocities. What many people do not understand is that these people are not, in fact, following traditional Islam, but have branched out to an extreme point of view that has only the fading basics rooted in Islamic culture.
After the mosque, we finally had some free time at the hotel, where Steph fell into a temporary coma after we ate a very delicious pizza. I napped for about an hour before I left with the rest of our group to go back to the Giza pyramids for the famed Sound and Light show. The pyramids were lit by different colors and a lazer-fueled, comic-like story ensued, as an ominous voice filled the air and told stories of the ancient Egyptians. Many people enjoyed it and many others were disappointed, but my thoughts were moreso on the fact that they had downplayed ancient Egypt to the point of mythology in order to make money. After all, these pyramids took an incredible amount of time and energy and killed many people (though NOT slaves; 200,000 skilled workers actually built them) in order to appease their pharaoh and the clearly VERY STRONG belief that he would rise again. Overall, I found the lighting of the pyramids to be lovely; it was the “sound” portion that was so disappointing. A peer of mine suggested music instead to go along with the lights, which I agreed would make the show infinitely better.
After the show, at around 9:30 PM, we all went back to the Marriott for dinner (another buffet!), before several of us decided to explore the hotel. On the roof we found a restaurant setup with a movie screening, which overlooked a good portion of Cairo. We enjoyed some Egyptian shisha (hookah), and Steph joined us, before I headed back to sleep around midnight. We had another 4 AM wake up call the next day…
After oogling the rising sun for an hour and a half, we returned to the bus and air conditioning to await our camel rides. Steph and I climbed onto a camel together for ten dollars each, jerking and rocking as the camel swayed from side to side. They are much larger creatures than I had anticipated! We rode closer to the pyramids and then back to the bus to be transported to our second pyramid stop: the ground between the bases of Cheops and Khafre. We stood for awhile, taking pictures and warding off the preying vendors shouting “ONE DOLLAR! ONE DOLLAR!” Our last stop was the Sphinx, which was significantly smaller than I had pictured it in my mind. The final view, of the Sphinx in the foreground and the three pyramids behind it, was quite incredible and an image I will not soon forget.
After our final viewing of the pyramids, it was nearly 10 AM as we headed for the Archaeological Museum in Cairo. It was repulsively hot as we debarked our bus, and of course the museum was not air-conditioned. The museum is about the point in the day when the majority of the group began hitting walls (we had been awake for six hours and had gotten less than four hours of sleep the night before, after all). The attendants in the bathrooms required one Egyptian pound if we were to be given toilet paper, but of course most of us only had one- and two-hundred bills, and as our bladders expanded it made the heat that much more unbearable. I needed to see the museum for my Art History class, and so I jotted down several notes before Steph and I left the group early to hide out in the air-conditioned gift shop, which was claustrophobically small and crowded, selling next to nothing besides postcards.
At noon we left the museum and drove to the Nile, where a riverboat awaited our arrival for lunch. We had another buffet while we cruised the infamous river (much dirtier/urban than I’d imagined), and then viewed a mediocre dervish performance followed by a less-than-mediocre belly dancing performance (more breast dancing than belly dancing). After lunch we were driven to YET ANOTHER site, the famous Alabaster Mosque. It was gorgeous, decorated in green and gold with lanterns strung all around. I have seen an insane amount of cathedrals over the past few months and this was the first mosque I had ever entered; according to my personal taste, the beauty of this mosque far outweighed any cathedral I had ever been in (and I have been in the Vatican). I learned today that Muslims do not generally create images in their buildings—as this duty is God’s alone—and I believe that the simpler motif of color and delicate decoration, as opposed to the opulence of Christianity, far better suits my aesthetic taste. We sat on the carpet in the mosque as our guide explained to us the basics of Islam and then gave us the opportunity to ask questions. Finding out a bit about Islam is something I strongly encourage everyone to do, as in western societies it is a religion that is terribly misconstrued due to the fact that many people are content not to look past September 11th. Instead, they judge another (very large and diverse) culture without knowing anything about it—save that there are several people who have DEVIATED from the religious norm and committed great atrocities. What many people do not understand is that these people are not, in fact, following traditional Islam, but have branched out to an extreme point of view that has only the fading basics rooted in Islamic culture.
After the mosque, we finally had some free time at the hotel, where Steph fell into a temporary coma after we ate a very delicious pizza. I napped for about an hour before I left with the rest of our group to go back to the Giza pyramids for the famed Sound and Light show. The pyramids were lit by different colors and a lazer-fueled, comic-like story ensued, as an ominous voice filled the air and told stories of the ancient Egyptians. Many people enjoyed it and many others were disappointed, but my thoughts were moreso on the fact that they had downplayed ancient Egypt to the point of mythology in order to make money. After all, these pyramids took an incredible amount of time and energy and killed many people (though NOT slaves; 200,000 skilled workers actually built them) in order to appease their pharaoh and the clearly VERY STRONG belief that he would rise again. Overall, I found the lighting of the pyramids to be lovely; it was the “sound” portion that was so disappointing. A peer of mine suggested music instead to go along with the lights, which I agreed would make the show infinitely better.
After the show, at around 9:30 PM, we all went back to the Marriott for dinner (another buffet!), before several of us decided to explore the hotel. On the roof we found a restaurant setup with a movie screening, which overlooked a good portion of Cairo. We enjoyed some Egyptian shisha (hookah), and Steph joined us, before I headed back to sleep around midnight. We had another 4 AM wake up call the next day…
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Alexandria, Egypt: Day 1
I was scheduled for a monstrous Semester at Sea trip in Egypt entitled Cairo/Luxor. As it required doing very much in very little time, we were scheduled to leave Alexandria as soon as the ship cleared immigration. Steph and I had breakfast and sat for about an hour (along with the other 120 or so participants) waiting to board the bus, which was escorted by the police until we were outside of the city. It was a three-hour drive through the Sahara to get to Cairo, and the majority of my time was spent sleeping. When we arrived, we stopped for lunch at Le Meridian, a hotel directly across from the Great Pyramids; it was a buffet, which was a style we would all get to know very well over the next several days.
After lunch, our buses headed for Memphis, Egypt’s first capital, to view some antiquities, including the fallen colossi of someone whose name has left me.. It was incredibly hot, but the place was small and we were only there for about a half hour. Afterwards, we continued on to Saqqara, which houses several tombs and ancient pyramids. We visited one tomb, touring the inside hieroglyphics before continuing on closer to the pyramids nearby. These were older than the Great Pyramids, and built very differently; there are six steps to each one instead of the smoother shape exhibited by other pyramids. We also saw a man make out with a camel—mighty unpleasant.
We then headed to our hotel (the Marriott) to check in and have some free time. Steph switched with my roommate so that we could share a room, and we spent our break ordering Kartouches from our tour guide. A kartouche is basically hieroglyphics on metal; they are popularly worn as jewelry in Egypt. At 7 PM we left for the bazaar, similar to those of Turkey, but much less touristy and therefore a bit more uncomfortable. We were hassled beyond belief, and Steph and I garnered an estimated fifteen marriage proposals. The bazaar was fun, and sold primarily authentic Egyptian clothing, gold, and silver jewelry. I bought a kartouche for myself at one of the jewelry stores for about half the price of the other one I ordered (it also turned out to be half the quality). At 9:30 we departed, heading back to the hotel for a 10:30 dinner, followed by showers and sleep.
After lunch, our buses headed for Memphis, Egypt’s first capital, to view some antiquities, including the fallen colossi of someone whose name has left me.. It was incredibly hot, but the place was small and we were only there for about a half hour. Afterwards, we continued on to Saqqara, which houses several tombs and ancient pyramids. We visited one tomb, touring the inside hieroglyphics before continuing on closer to the pyramids nearby. These were older than the Great Pyramids, and built very differently; there are six steps to each one instead of the smoother shape exhibited by other pyramids. We also saw a man make out with a camel—mighty unpleasant.
We then headed to our hotel (the Marriott) to check in and have some free time. Steph switched with my roommate so that we could share a room, and we spent our break ordering Kartouches from our tour guide. A kartouche is basically hieroglyphics on metal; they are popularly worn as jewelry in Egypt. At 7 PM we left for the bazaar, similar to those of Turkey, but much less touristy and therefore a bit more uncomfortable. We were hassled beyond belief, and Steph and I garnered an estimated fifteen marriage proposals. The bazaar was fun, and sold primarily authentic Egyptian clothing, gold, and silver jewelry. I bought a kartouche for myself at one of the jewelry stores for about half the price of the other one I ordered (it also turned out to be half the quality). At 9:30 we departed, heading back to the hotel for a 10:30 dinner, followed by showers and sleep.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Varna, Bulgaria: Days 3 and 4
On our third day in Varna, I awoke to thunder, lighting, and rain Oh My! It cleared up around noon, and Jill, Steph, and I set out with three other girls to find a place to go horseback riding. We left for Golden Sands (Varna’s sort of downtown) and spent a great deal of time walking, hiking, climbing, and sweating while we looked for the spot that they had heard of. Jill, Steph, and I gave up to go shopping, but the other girls kept looking and from what I know, they found it after a few more tries (I hope it was expensive so I don’t have to kick myself for not going!). We walked Golden Sands for a bit, and I bought some sandals to soothe my sweating sneaker-feet as well as a ring to replace the one James accidentally dropped down an elevator shaft. The new one is not quite so awesome, but it was not very expensive so no biggie if he doesn’t like it.
Jill grew tired and asked us to head back, so we climbed into a cab that charged us far too much and left for the ship. Because of police detours, the cab driver left us about a kilometer (ha! I speak in meters now) from our ship, and we stopped in a few stores on our hot hot hot walk back. When we got back, Steph and I decided to go back to one of the beach bars while Jill napped. We went to the same bar that I had been at with Tom and his roommate on the first night, though I had a better experience. We went back to the ship after about an hour and two drinks each to shower.
We left with Tom and Alexine (fellow outspoken topshop admirer) to find a bar along the beach and settled into a small and nearly empty place next to the water slides. After a few minutes we noticed a small boy oogling us, face unchanging. We tried to feed him potato chips and speak to him (obviously without success), but he remained unflinching! His (slightly intoxicated) mother finally came to reclaim him, and would not take no for an answer when we said we could not speak Bulgarian. When she asked if any of us spoke Spanish, however, all fingers pointed to me and I was stuck in a deadend conversation for about thirty minutes. I believe she spoke even less Spanish than I did, and the conversation basically consisted of her asking where we were from, how we got here, and why we spoke only English. I had no answer for the last one besides the self-absorption of one entire country whose disregard for the importance of bilingualism trickles down to most. After she left, with her child and “friend,” we spent a short while longer there until they closed, and then headed further down the beach to a bigger, louder, more crowded bar. Several Semester-at-Sea-ers enjoyed our company there, including Corey (where had he been since Capri?). At this point, time was likely entering into the next day, when Tom requested that we visit a casino. I obliged and helped gather the rest of our entourage before we set out.
The casino was rather dead, and I attempted to play some sort of game that I did not really understand, losing 10 leva in the process (6 dollars). Only the one table was open and so we left shortly after, but I am now a proud card-carrying member of some casino group…thing. We set out for food as some of us were hungry, but when we stopped at McDonald’s—of all places—I opted to go without. Tom took leave of us then, as he had an FDP the next morning (surprise surprise: it was a trip for his business class that took him to the very same McDonald’s!), and we cabbed to a bar Alexine suggested called Copacabana. There was a 5 leva cover charge that Steph was very unhappy about, and her frown worsened still when we were told we had to pay to use the restroom and then for toilet paper (at about 30 cents each, it was more a nuisance of trying to find coins that small than about the loss of money). We spent the rest of the night and early morning sitting at the bar, where both Steph and Jill made new manly friends while I wallflowered a bit. Alexine was lost to us for awhile, but as the bar only increased in Semester at Sea population, we were not worried. We again saw Corey and friends, and did not leave the bar until around 4:30 AM. We began walking back to the ship, which took about a half an hour, skipping over a kabob stand not because we weren’t hungry, but because they were ignoring us. We arrive back to the ship and I requested that we stay up to see the sunrise; Steph promptly asked who I was and why I wanted to stay up later than she does, as she is our resident party monkey. I suppose that once I get past a certain point, tired is nothing and I will karate chop it! We stayed up until six, watching the first half of the sunrise, and then went to bed. I would have liked to stay up until breakfast (7 AM), but what was I going to do for an hour? The ship can be rather boring at 6 AM.
The next morning (afternoon), we returned to the ship-restaurant for French fries and Diet Cokes (and more olive tapenade!) before deciding that Steph and I would rather find a way to spend our remaining thirty leva than lay on the beach. We left Jill to her tanning and headed to the Varna mall, where we left most of the rest of our money before heading back to the ship to nap before we left Varna. In two days we will be in Alexandria, and I will be on my way to Cairo with Steph for a four-day nonstop journey to all the major and amazing points of ancient Egypt.
Jill grew tired and asked us to head back, so we climbed into a cab that charged us far too much and left for the ship. Because of police detours, the cab driver left us about a kilometer (ha! I speak in meters now) from our ship, and we stopped in a few stores on our hot hot hot walk back. When we got back, Steph and I decided to go back to one of the beach bars while Jill napped. We went to the same bar that I had been at with Tom and his roommate on the first night, though I had a better experience. We went back to the ship after about an hour and two drinks each to shower.
We left with Tom and Alexine (fellow outspoken topshop admirer) to find a bar along the beach and settled into a small and nearly empty place next to the water slides. After a few minutes we noticed a small boy oogling us, face unchanging. We tried to feed him potato chips and speak to him (obviously without success), but he remained unflinching! His (slightly intoxicated) mother finally came to reclaim him, and would not take no for an answer when we said we could not speak Bulgarian. When she asked if any of us spoke Spanish, however, all fingers pointed to me and I was stuck in a deadend conversation for about thirty minutes. I believe she spoke even less Spanish than I did, and the conversation basically consisted of her asking where we were from, how we got here, and why we spoke only English. I had no answer for the last one besides the self-absorption of one entire country whose disregard for the importance of bilingualism trickles down to most. After she left, with her child and “friend,” we spent a short while longer there until they closed, and then headed further down the beach to a bigger, louder, more crowded bar. Several Semester-at-Sea-ers enjoyed our company there, including Corey (where had he been since Capri?). At this point, time was likely entering into the next day, when Tom requested that we visit a casino. I obliged and helped gather the rest of our entourage before we set out.
The casino was rather dead, and I attempted to play some sort of game that I did not really understand, losing 10 leva in the process (6 dollars). Only the one table was open and so we left shortly after, but I am now a proud card-carrying member of some casino group…thing. We set out for food as some of us were hungry, but when we stopped at McDonald’s—of all places—I opted to go without. Tom took leave of us then, as he had an FDP the next morning (surprise surprise: it was a trip for his business class that took him to the very same McDonald’s!), and we cabbed to a bar Alexine suggested called Copacabana. There was a 5 leva cover charge that Steph was very unhappy about, and her frown worsened still when we were told we had to pay to use the restroom and then for toilet paper (at about 30 cents each, it was more a nuisance of trying to find coins that small than about the loss of money). We spent the rest of the night and early morning sitting at the bar, where both Steph and Jill made new manly friends while I wallflowered a bit. Alexine was lost to us for awhile, but as the bar only increased in Semester at Sea population, we were not worried. We again saw Corey and friends, and did not leave the bar until around 4:30 AM. We began walking back to the ship, which took about a half an hour, skipping over a kabob stand not because we weren’t hungry, but because they were ignoring us. We arrive back to the ship and I requested that we stay up to see the sunrise; Steph promptly asked who I was and why I wanted to stay up later than she does, as she is our resident party monkey. I suppose that once I get past a certain point, tired is nothing and I will karate chop it! We stayed up until six, watching the first half of the sunrise, and then went to bed. I would have liked to stay up until breakfast (7 AM), but what was I going to do for an hour? The ship can be rather boring at 6 AM.
The next morning (afternoon), we returned to the ship-restaurant for French fries and Diet Cokes (and more olive tapenade!) before deciding that Steph and I would rather find a way to spend our remaining thirty leva than lay on the beach. We left Jill to her tanning and headed to the Varna mall, where we left most of the rest of our money before heading back to the ship to nap before we left Varna. In two days we will be in Alexandria, and I will be on my way to Cairo with Steph for a four-day nonstop journey to all the major and amazing points of ancient Egypt.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Varna, Bulgaria: Day 2
Jill, Steph, and I rose the second morning with one mission in mind: sushi and beach (is that two missions?). Imagine our delight when we discovered a sushi restaurant on a beach, with cabanas and large beds and fake palm trees. Turquoise palm trees! We spent several hours basking before deciding that instead of being served sushi in the hot sun whilst sweating, we would rather eat inside the restaurant. We settled into a table with some Sapporo and a delicious-looking (CHEAP!) menu before I realized, very sadly, that it was going to be near impossible to translate to our waiter that I hate seaweed and never eat sushi without my beloved soy paper. Actually, I believe it was very likely that they did not even have soy paper. I grudgingly accepted that I would be eating seaweed and ordered raw salmon maki and avocado maki with a side of white cheese fries (duh) to share. The seaweed is much better in Bulgaria. We enjoyed an extended lunch/dinner hybrid and ordered a fruit salad for dessert that was almost comparable to the incredible concoction from Croatia (remember: fresh fruit, gelato, strawberry sauce…).
After fattening ourselves, we went back to the ship to shower and nap. Jill was poopered out from our exhausting day (…) and did not want to go out, so Steph and I decided to go by ourselves around 11:30. We sat down in a restaurant that is inside of an old ship (was it an actual ship?) and ordered a giant Bulgarian cheese platter and some olive tapenade to go with our deliciously refreshing diet Cokes (Coke Lights). I also ordered some spicy chicken to eat by myself, as Steph is a bit sensitive to the heat. We enjoyed our very satisfying late late dinner and returned to the ship after an uneventful but very pleasing day.
After fattening ourselves, we went back to the ship to shower and nap. Jill was poopered out from our exhausting day (…) and did not want to go out, so Steph and I decided to go by ourselves around 11:30. We sat down in a restaurant that is inside of an old ship (was it an actual ship?) and ordered a giant Bulgarian cheese platter and some olive tapenade to go with our deliciously refreshing diet Cokes (Coke Lights). I also ordered some spicy chicken to eat by myself, as Steph is a bit sensitive to the heat. We enjoyed our very satisfying late late dinner and returned to the ship after an uneventful but very pleasing day.
Varna, Bulgaria: Day 1
When we arrived in Bulgaria, Jill had two Semester at Sea trips, and so Steph, Tom, and I ventured to the Sea Gardens, an area comprised of an aquarium, planetarium, terrarium, dolphinarium, and zoo. We spent about an hour walking in the (disgusting) Bulgarian heat to make it to the dolphinarium, oogling the ever-appealing beaches, which included sand (unlike every other European beach), pools, bars, a volleyball court, and giant water slides. We finally arrived to the dolphinarium about an hour before the 3:30 show. We settled into the dolphinarium café to observe a dolphin from underwater and enjoy a mid-afternoon snack. We were warned to avoid fruits/vegetables (traveller’s diarrhea—oh no!), and so I ordered “yellow cheese and sausage with toast” (open salami and cheese sandwich) and Steph and Tom each ordered tuna sandwiches. The show was short at 35 minutes, but it was also very entertaining. Tom surprised me by being completely enthralled by the show, smiley-faced and enthusiastic the entire time (quite funny to observe, actually).
After the show, Steph could not find her Chanel sunglasses and although they let her back inside the show area to look, it was, sadly, too late. Because of tendering (damn that tendering!), the ship was in “transition” and we could not get back on it until 7, which ended up being 8. It was around 4:30 at the time, and so we stopped by a small, incredibly overheated bar called “Aapu” to enjoy a cold beverage. Unfortunately, when you put a cold beverage in a hot room, the room does not cool down but the beverage heats up! Damn chemistry, physics, proportions, whatever. Science. After about a half hour, we were joined by three jolly, giant, sweaty men who sang drunken operas to us and inquired about a business partnership. Because they were named “Marco Marco,” “John Rambo,” and “Don Correon (sp),” we could not take them too seriously. Marco Marco apparently is a championship fighter and fought in some fantastic Las Vegas fight in 1992, and now is an important component of Varna SWAT. This was pure comedy to us, as he looked near 250 pounds, was completely drenched in sweat, and was drunker than anyone else in the room. After the comedy of the situation wore off, we headed back to the ship. It was about 6:30, and we watched from the beach as our ship headed into the port. Because so many people had been waiting to get back on the ship, it took about an hour to actually get on, and I basically ran for the shower after having glistened all day.
An hour or two later, Tom called us to go out to a beach bar, but Steph opted to wait for Jill (still on her trip) and meet up with us later. I walked with Tom and his roommate down to the beach, where we settled into the sand next to a bar. After awhile, what should happen but Semester at Sea people arrived! Tom left at some point to head to the bar with some of the girls, and when I went to use the restroom, everyone disappeared from my table. I found Tom’s roommate to ask what we were doing and he basically walked away from me; Tom had been gone about 45 minutes and so I did a once-over of the bar before walking back to the ship in a huff. Apologies have since been made.
After the show, Steph could not find her Chanel sunglasses and although they let her back inside the show area to look, it was, sadly, too late. Because of tendering (damn that tendering!), the ship was in “transition” and we could not get back on it until 7, which ended up being 8. It was around 4:30 at the time, and so we stopped by a small, incredibly overheated bar called “Aapu” to enjoy a cold beverage. Unfortunately, when you put a cold beverage in a hot room, the room does not cool down but the beverage heats up! Damn chemistry, physics, proportions, whatever. Science. After about a half hour, we were joined by three jolly, giant, sweaty men who sang drunken operas to us and inquired about a business partnership. Because they were named “Marco Marco,” “John Rambo,” and “Don Correon (sp),” we could not take them too seriously. Marco Marco apparently is a championship fighter and fought in some fantastic Las Vegas fight in 1992, and now is an important component of Varna SWAT. This was pure comedy to us, as he looked near 250 pounds, was completely drenched in sweat, and was drunker than anyone else in the room. After the comedy of the situation wore off, we headed back to the ship. It was about 6:30, and we watched from the beach as our ship headed into the port. Because so many people had been waiting to get back on the ship, it took about an hour to actually get on, and I basically ran for the shower after having glistened all day.
An hour or two later, Tom called us to go out to a beach bar, but Steph opted to wait for Jill (still on her trip) and meet up with us later. I walked with Tom and his roommate down to the beach, where we settled into the sand next to a bar. After awhile, what should happen but Semester at Sea people arrived! Tom left at some point to head to the bar with some of the girls, and when I went to use the restroom, everyone disappeared from my table. I found Tom’s roommate to ask what we were doing and he basically walked away from me; Tom had been gone about 45 minutes and so I did a once-over of the bar before walking back to the ship in a huff. Apologies have since been made.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Istanbul, Turkey: Days 4 and 5
We again rose at 7:30 for breakfast, as today we (Jill, Steph, and I) were traveling to one of the Prince’s Isles, a group of six islands off the coast of Istanbul, traditionally home to wealthy Jews. We took an hour-and-a-half ferry to the sixth island, where I immediately craved and bought an ice cream cone (it was no gelato) and we waited in line for our hour-long horse-drawn carriage ride around the island (as I typed that I noted that I have been to quite a few islands this trip…). We fit five in a four-person carriage and sat erect, camera-ready, watching the vacation homes and apartment buildings pass us by. We had a ten minute break, after which the driver picked me out to sit up front with him and navigate the buggy. I gladly accepted and enjoyed the far superior view for most of the time, save the moment when the carriage in front of us ran over a small boy on his bicycle outside of a school and left him crying and attending his apparently pained backside. After exclaiming “polis!” the driver told me to get back in the carriage and I grudgingly obliged, as steering horses is quite entertaining.
After our carriage ride we had time to wander the island and have a beer before enduring the 90 minute, incredibly uncomfortable and hot, ferry ride back to Istanbul’s mainland. We showered and then bought sandwiches at a deli across the street from the port before changing for our one night of going out on our last day in Turkey. We cabbed to Taxim Square, a popular shopping and terrorist area, to find a bar to invade. As we walked we saw “Welcome Explorer!” in a bar window and, assuming that was us (as our ship is the MV Explorer), we entered free of charge. It was mostly empty save for a few SAS kids and several Turkish people. After a couple hours, as seems to be tradition with us, the bar was full to the brim with SAS kids. After two Sex on the Beaches I was feeling rather sick (this is why I do not drink hard liquer—I watched him pour rum, vodka, and tequila in my drink!) and Steph walked me to a cab so that I could head back to the ship.
The next morning we went back to Taxim Square. The previous night I had seen a Topshop near the bar, and as there is only one in the US, and the one is in NYC, I made it my mission to go there. As I am low on money and have had much more than I anticipated transferred into my account after realizing I had not budgeted enough, this was a very smart/sane decision on my part. It was a bit more expensive than I would have liked (I thought that it would have been less expensive than usual, as Topshop is based in England and therefore uses very expensive currency in comparison to lyra), but the clothes were excellent and I walked out three items happier (as I had a surplus on my credit card, I technically only spent 100 dollars—no more shopping for me). Jill wanted to continue shopping, and I found myself in three more stores (I only purchased another 8 dollar shirt) before we went back to the ship to leave for Bulgaria! We are currently anchored several miles from Varna, however we cannot clear customs until tomorrow (BOOOO), which is actually fine because I have a paper due at midnight and need no distractions…such as writing in my blog.
After our carriage ride we had time to wander the island and have a beer before enduring the 90 minute, incredibly uncomfortable and hot, ferry ride back to Istanbul’s mainland. We showered and then bought sandwiches at a deli across the street from the port before changing for our one night of going out on our last day in Turkey. We cabbed to Taxim Square, a popular shopping and terrorist area, to find a bar to invade. As we walked we saw “Welcome Explorer!” in a bar window and, assuming that was us (as our ship is the MV Explorer), we entered free of charge. It was mostly empty save for a few SAS kids and several Turkish people. After a couple hours, as seems to be tradition with us, the bar was full to the brim with SAS kids. After two Sex on the Beaches I was feeling rather sick (this is why I do not drink hard liquer—I watched him pour rum, vodka, and tequila in my drink!) and Steph walked me to a cab so that I could head back to the ship.
The next morning we went back to Taxim Square. The previous night I had seen a Topshop near the bar, and as there is only one in the US, and the one is in NYC, I made it my mission to go there. As I am low on money and have had much more than I anticipated transferred into my account after realizing I had not budgeted enough, this was a very smart/sane decision on my part. It was a bit more expensive than I would have liked (I thought that it would have been less expensive than usual, as Topshop is based in England and therefore uses very expensive currency in comparison to lyra), but the clothes were excellent and I walked out three items happier (as I had a surplus on my credit card, I technically only spent 100 dollars—no more shopping for me). Jill wanted to continue shopping, and I found myself in three more stores (I only purchased another 8 dollar shirt) before we went back to the ship to leave for Bulgaria! We are currently anchored several miles from Varna, however we cannot clear customs until tomorrow (BOOOO), which is actually fine because I have a paper due at midnight and need no distractions…such as writing in my blog.
Istanbul, Turkey: Day 3
Jill and I had to be awake at 7:30 to enjoy breakfast before our trip with SAS entitled “Jewish Tradition in Istanbul.” I must say, though, that after our “preport” meeting where they reiterated the threat of terrorism in Turkey numerous times, going to Jewish places in a Muslim country was not quite so appealing. We began with a short bus tour around Istanbul and then visited our first of two synagogues. The guide pointed out several bullet holes leftover from a 1986 terrorist attack (lovely) and the engraving on the wall dedicated to the nearly fifty people killed in the attacks of 1986 and 2003 (which only killed people on the street as the walls of the synagogue are so thick). To backtrack—and illuminate the small danger of being Jewish in Istanbul—we were required to bring our passports and be searched before entering the synagogue, as well as have been previously added to a manifest and walk through metal detectors. It felt very serious.
Our visit to the second synagogue was much shorter (and the synagogue much smaller), and as the guide spoke to us I zoned out a bit because I realized it was virtually a review of my medieval and ancient Jewish Studies class from this past semester. We arrived back to the ship around eleven to wake up Steph and go to the Grand Bazaar, which I had been looking VERY forward to but which was closed the previous day (Sunday). The Grand Bazaar is an ENORMOUS covered area of shopping, with more than 4000 shops dedicated to anything and everything, from spices and dried fruits similar to the Spice Bazaar, to fur coats and jewelry that cost thousands of dollars.
There is a trick to the Grand Bazaar, however, as it is a place of intense bargaining. The Spice Bazaar was simple as it had set prices; the Grand Bazaar was much more complicated and it became very clear very quickly that I was going to be ripped off no matter what I did. Steph even claimed that the jewelry we looked at, which the vendor claimed was worth hundreds of dollars, was in fact fake and worth much less. In the Grand Bazaar, I found tapestries similar to that of the one I had bought our first night, and when I asked how much they were, the vendor said 100 lyra (about 60 dollars)! Now, I had paid thirty lyra for my tapestry and was having none of that, so I tried to persuade him down to 25 lyra, which he claimed he could do, but only for a kiss on the lips. I less-than-politely declined and moved on. I did end up trading several cheek-kisses for severe discounts, and the male vendors of the Bazaar certainly took a liking to us, especially when Steph bought a soccer jersey to wear. My favorite purchase of the day was a set of teapots handmade in Turkey (so says the vendor) and “completely unique.” Whether or not these are facts, and whether or not 65 lyra was a ripoff, they are elegant and unique in my world and will make an excellent gift to the person I bought them for.
When we returned to the ship, we showered and got dressed. Steph had made it clear that she wanted to go to just one hookah bar in Turkey, since she had not yet, and so it seemed that I was going to be making my third trip to Turkey’s smoking section that night. I invited one person and Jill invited one person and all of a sudden we had a group of ten, walking to the same bar I had been the previous night with Tim. We lounged on the beanbags and enjoyed apple tea with our hookah until about midnight, when Jill, Steph, and I headed back and the rest of the group continued on to the “metal bar,” a headbanger’s Turkish paradise.
Our visit to the second synagogue was much shorter (and the synagogue much smaller), and as the guide spoke to us I zoned out a bit because I realized it was virtually a review of my medieval and ancient Jewish Studies class from this past semester. We arrived back to the ship around eleven to wake up Steph and go to the Grand Bazaar, which I had been looking VERY forward to but which was closed the previous day (Sunday). The Grand Bazaar is an ENORMOUS covered area of shopping, with more than 4000 shops dedicated to anything and everything, from spices and dried fruits similar to the Spice Bazaar, to fur coats and jewelry that cost thousands of dollars.
There is a trick to the Grand Bazaar, however, as it is a place of intense bargaining. The Spice Bazaar was simple as it had set prices; the Grand Bazaar was much more complicated and it became very clear very quickly that I was going to be ripped off no matter what I did. Steph even claimed that the jewelry we looked at, which the vendor claimed was worth hundreds of dollars, was in fact fake and worth much less. In the Grand Bazaar, I found tapestries similar to that of the one I had bought our first night, and when I asked how much they were, the vendor said 100 lyra (about 60 dollars)! Now, I had paid thirty lyra for my tapestry and was having none of that, so I tried to persuade him down to 25 lyra, which he claimed he could do, but only for a kiss on the lips. I less-than-politely declined and moved on. I did end up trading several cheek-kisses for severe discounts, and the male vendors of the Bazaar certainly took a liking to us, especially when Steph bought a soccer jersey to wear. My favorite purchase of the day was a set of teapots handmade in Turkey (so says the vendor) and “completely unique.” Whether or not these are facts, and whether or not 65 lyra was a ripoff, they are elegant and unique in my world and will make an excellent gift to the person I bought them for.
When we returned to the ship, we showered and got dressed. Steph had made it clear that she wanted to go to just one hookah bar in Turkey, since she had not yet, and so it seemed that I was going to be making my third trip to Turkey’s smoking section that night. I invited one person and Jill invited one person and all of a sudden we had a group of ten, walking to the same bar I had been the previous night with Tim. We lounged on the beanbags and enjoyed apple tea with our hookah until about midnight, when Jill, Steph, and I headed back and the rest of the group continued on to the “metal bar,” a headbanger’s Turkish paradise.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Some Photos from Turkey
Here are some pictures from Turkey (sorry about the lack of pictures from Croatia and Greece; we didn't take many, but perhaps when I get to another internet cafe I will upload them). We took a great deal of pictures in Turkey, these are just the bare bones of it (some pictures are of events not yet described in my blog...those blogs will come!).
Monday, July 20, 2009
Istanbul, Turkey: Day 2
We began our day with breakfast at 8 AM and then went back to sleep until noon, when we (Jill, Steph, Amy, and I) left to go shopping at the spice bazaar. We first stopped at a small restaurant to get gyro-like meat sandwiches, and I found that my “kabob” (shredded chicken on a bed of rice with peppers and French fries) was much more delicious than their chicken sandwiches (complete with lettuce and carrots, eww). Amy then left us, and we walked across the bridge separating the two areas of the European side of Istanbul to get to the bazaar.
Once we got there, we were completely enthralled. The bazaar was incredible, with rows upon rows of shops selling spices, nuts, candy (more Turkish delight), dried fruits, perfumes, tapestries, and plenty of other fantastic items. We stopped first at a perfumerie, where one can choose from the rows of scents and choose bottles to accompany them. We each purchased several (with a discount :]) and moved on. Nearly every store (vendor) lured us inside, and we found that the people were not only charming but sincere. In nearly every shop we went into, one of my coughs immediately elicited a “can I get you some water or tea?” or an “are you sick? I can fix that.” One man sat me down and told me he had the cure. He took a spoonful of one of his spices, mixing it with water and telling me to chug it as it would be spicy. Five seconds later my mouth was on fire, but five minutes later my cough had soothed considerably. I bought chilies and spices and teas for everyone, as well as some Turkish delight samplers for people to try.
When we got back to the ship, Tom called and invited me to a pre-season soccer game that night, which I declined, as Jill and Steph and I had plans. About an hour later, Jill and Steph called to invite me to the soccer game, which I again declined for no reason at all, really. I was feeling like quite the homebody. After re-realizing that there is no TV, movies, or internet on the ship, I grew bored and began wandering. I ran into Tim, who had no plans for the night except that he wanted to go to a hookah bar. Although I had been to one the night before, I agreed and we left around 10:30. He took me to one he had seen earlier, which had beanbags and small tables spread across a park-like area next to a restaurant. We spent a relaxing hour people-watching and eating cheese-toast before returning to the ship to sleep.
Once we got there, we were completely enthralled. The bazaar was incredible, with rows upon rows of shops selling spices, nuts, candy (more Turkish delight), dried fruits, perfumes, tapestries, and plenty of other fantastic items. We stopped first at a perfumerie, where one can choose from the rows of scents and choose bottles to accompany them. We each purchased several (with a discount :]) and moved on. Nearly every store (vendor) lured us inside, and we found that the people were not only charming but sincere. In nearly every shop we went into, one of my coughs immediately elicited a “can I get you some water or tea?” or an “are you sick? I can fix that.” One man sat me down and told me he had the cure. He took a spoonful of one of his spices, mixing it with water and telling me to chug it as it would be spicy. Five seconds later my mouth was on fire, but five minutes later my cough had soothed considerably. I bought chilies and spices and teas for everyone, as well as some Turkish delight samplers for people to try.
When we got back to the ship, Tom called and invited me to a pre-season soccer game that night, which I declined, as Jill and Steph and I had plans. About an hour later, Jill and Steph called to invite me to the soccer game, which I again declined for no reason at all, really. I was feeling like quite the homebody. After re-realizing that there is no TV, movies, or internet on the ship, I grew bored and began wandering. I ran into Tim, who had no plans for the night except that he wanted to go to a hookah bar. Although I had been to one the night before, I agreed and we left around 10:30. He took me to one he had seen earlier, which had beanbags and small tables spread across a park-like area next to a restaurant. We spent a relaxing hour people-watching and eating cheese-toast before returning to the ship to sleep.
Istanbul, Turkey: Day 1
After only one day at sea, we arrived in Istanbul, Turkey. After COMPLETELY losing my voice and nearly causing my stomach to spasm with coughs, I paid a second visit to the ship doctor, who gave me cough medicine and told me to stop talking (yeah, right) and rest (okay). I spent the entire day in bed, and at 5 PM finally emerged from my hibernation to watch the whirling dervishes (Muslim performances) with Jill. We took the metro (crowded and anxiety-inducing) across the bridge and made our way to the train station, where the ceremony was held, to buy tickets. After purchasing them, we walked in search of an ice cream cone, my current craving. On the way I decided to give in and buy a digital camera (remember, mine broke on the first day in Spain), so I could have one for at least half of my trip.
After finally buying an ice cream cone we went back into the train station for the performance. Now I do not pretend to know anything about the whirling dervishes, so forgive my interpretation. I am not sure what I was expecting, but it was surprisingly simple. First, six singers/musicians came out and performed several songs for us. After about fifteen minutes, they left and returned shortly, with black robes on and followed by another group, the dancers (also robed in black). The music began again and the dancers discarded their black robes, revealing colorful ones, and began whirling with their arms raised and heads cocked to one side like marionettes. As they twirled, I marveled at their endurance. They spun for minutes on end, arms raised the entire time. Now, for anyone who has ever done yoga, you know that holding one’s arms up for any period of time longer than a minute is painfully near impossible.
After about an hour, they finished and Jill and I decided to wander around the Old City (where we were). We found that the stores in Istanbul were fun and relatively cheap; I bought a tapestry (though I have no idea what I am going to do with it..), some treats from a candy store filled with Turkish Delight (a very interesting candy for those who haven’t tried it), and a kilogram of cherries from a vendor for 4 lyra (less than three dollars). After walking we decided to stop at a local hookah bar and try the local treat. We ended up staying close to four hours, making friends with the waiters and enjoying the cherries I’d purchased. The waiters fell quite in love with us and not only gave us a discount, but got us half price on a taxi back to the ship. We arrived back at about 1:30 and I was out by 2.
After finally buying an ice cream cone we went back into the train station for the performance. Now I do not pretend to know anything about the whirling dervishes, so forgive my interpretation. I am not sure what I was expecting, but it was surprisingly simple. First, six singers/musicians came out and performed several songs for us. After about fifteen minutes, they left and returned shortly, with black robes on and followed by another group, the dancers (also robed in black). The music began again and the dancers discarded their black robes, revealing colorful ones, and began whirling with their arms raised and heads cocked to one side like marionettes. As they twirled, I marveled at their endurance. They spun for minutes on end, arms raised the entire time. Now, for anyone who has ever done yoga, you know that holding one’s arms up for any period of time longer than a minute is painfully near impossible.
After about an hour, they finished and Jill and I decided to wander around the Old City (where we were). We found that the stores in Istanbul were fun and relatively cheap; I bought a tapestry (though I have no idea what I am going to do with it..), some treats from a candy store filled with Turkish Delight (a very interesting candy for those who haven’t tried it), and a kilogram of cherries from a vendor for 4 lyra (less than three dollars). After walking we decided to stop at a local hookah bar and try the local treat. We ended up staying close to four hours, making friends with the waiters and enjoying the cherries I’d purchased. The waiters fell quite in love with us and not only gave us a discount, but got us half price on a taxi back to the ship. We arrived back at about 1:30 and I was out by 2.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Piraeus, Greece: Day 4
On our last day in Greece, Jill, Steph, and I wanted to do some shopping (I had yet to buy mass quantities of my favorite Greek treat: olives). We grabbed Tom and Brady and set out for La Plaka, a popular shopping area. We wandered for awhile and I got my olives, as well as some Greek candy and a present for Kaye. We stopped for some French fries and diet cokes before continuing in the (very) hot sun. After realizing that every store held virtually the same thing, I suggested we go to the Athens mall. The taxi there was very expensive, but I asserted that an air-conditioned shopping environment was absolutely worth it. We left Tom and Brady behind and got in the first taxi that offered us the ride for less than 25 euro (booo!); when we hit traffic, I asked the driver how long it would take, and he said, quite surely, “15 minutes.” Forty-five minutes later, we arrived at the mall with less than an hour to spend there if we wanted to make it back to the ship on time (6:00 sharp or more “dock time” for us).
The mall was ENORMOUS and overwhelming and wonderful, and while I am running low on money, I was also running low on clothing, so I bought some t-shirts. We were downright exhausted by 4:45 and hailed a taxi, which hit traffic almost immediately. Bridge construction caused our drive to the ship to be more than an hour long and nearly landing us the dreaded dock time, but we made it. Once back at the ship, I lounged poolside until the ship left the port.
The next day, my Art History midterm (the major stress-inducer that likely caused my never-ending illness) was returned: 93.5 %, thankyouverymuch. I have a beyond solid A in Spanish as well, but Global Studies kicked my butt on the first essay. I received an A for my stellar aptitude on the exam, but the graders were unfairly picky and gave me a C on my essay! A C! I am in a major where ALL I DO IS WRITE! Flabbergasted, I promised myself I would turn in a rough draft of the second paper in advance to one of the T.A.s (one is my Art History teacher..) to review before handing in another one where 20 points is taken off because I didn’t say “Fukiyama.” Shipboard education is difficult.
The mall was ENORMOUS and overwhelming and wonderful, and while I am running low on money, I was also running low on clothing, so I bought some t-shirts. We were downright exhausted by 4:45 and hailed a taxi, which hit traffic almost immediately. Bridge construction caused our drive to the ship to be more than an hour long and nearly landing us the dreaded dock time, but we made it. Once back at the ship, I lounged poolside until the ship left the port.
The next day, my Art History midterm (the major stress-inducer that likely caused my never-ending illness) was returned: 93.5 %, thankyouverymuch. I have a beyond solid A in Spanish as well, but Global Studies kicked my butt on the first essay. I received an A for my stellar aptitude on the exam, but the graders were unfairly picky and gave me a C on my essay! A C! I am in a major where ALL I DO IS WRITE! Flabbergasted, I promised myself I would turn in a rough draft of the second paper in advance to one of the T.A.s (one is my Art History teacher..) to review before handing in another one where 20 points is taken off because I didn’t say “Fukiyama.” Shipboard education is difficult.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Piraeus, Greece: Day 3
On our third day in Piraeus, several Greek diplomats (including the Minister of Foreign Affairs) and Greek students from the university Deree attended an “Open Ship” onboard. As there were several events throughout the day, student “volunteers” were needed to help, for the beautiful stipend of $100. Since my friends were gone--and I need to get my hair dyed--I had volunteered. I spent the day mingling with and escorting the Greek visitors up and down the ship (trying not to speak because I had lost my voice), and at around 6:30 went to visit a returned Steph, who, like me, was in the mood for some Greek food! Yum.
We left the boat and began walking around Piraeus, noting how surprisingly difficult finding food had been for us in Europe. After about ten minutes and asking a bartender, we found a fantastic little half indoor/half outdoor place selling gyros, souvlaki, etc. We munched on a block of feta for an appetizer and I ordered the country sausage plate, consisting of two giant pork sausages cut long ways over a bed of French fries (which are really truly amazing in Greece) with Greek yogurt, pita bread, and onions and tomato—which I ignored. The sausage with the feta, yogurt, and pita was amazing, and I finished everything but the sausage, which, like I said, were huge. Steph ordered a pork sandwich, which she devoured (as it was enormous, I gathered that it must have been delicious). What I loved about her sandwich was that the fries were inside it! It was one of the best meals I have had so far.
When we returned Jill was back, and Tom called us to see if we wanted to go out. I said no (I had developed pinkeye), but Jill and Steph begged pretty hard and I eventually gave in, grumpily putting on a red dress to match the glasses I had to wear. We left with a group of about 10-15 people (which was eventually widdled down to seven: me, Jill, Steph, Tom, his friend Brady, and their friends Bridget and Taryn). They stopped to have a beer at a kiosk on the street, but I was full enough from dinner and took a pass. The walk to the metro was about 20 minutes and I thanked myself for not wearing heels. We boarded and took it into Athens, where we searched for a spot to settle in. The stop we had gotten off at was mainly restaurants and we wasted about a half hour sitting/walking/standing around like dorks. It was 12:30 and we headed back to the metro to take it another stop over. Unfortunately, the metro closes at 12:30; interestingly enough, we made it in just to be told this, but when we tried to leave, they had closed a gate on us and we were trapped. It was quite the adventure getting out. We finally decided on taking two cabs to a place that supposedly had good night life (according to the local Jill asked), and finally ended up at a Mexican (!!) bar in a side street crowded with people. My stomach had finally settled and I sipped on peach margaritas for the rest of the night (my favorite part was the fresh peach slices they included).
We headed back to the ship around 4 AM in a taxi, and I should just note that Piraeus is not the place to stay. Taxis ended up being the only option for us multiple times, and they do a very good job of overcharging. About half the money I spent in Greece was on taxis.
We left the boat and began walking around Piraeus, noting how surprisingly difficult finding food had been for us in Europe. After about ten minutes and asking a bartender, we found a fantastic little half indoor/half outdoor place selling gyros, souvlaki, etc. We munched on a block of feta for an appetizer and I ordered the country sausage plate, consisting of two giant pork sausages cut long ways over a bed of French fries (which are really truly amazing in Greece) with Greek yogurt, pita bread, and onions and tomato—which I ignored. The sausage with the feta, yogurt, and pita was amazing, and I finished everything but the sausage, which, like I said, were huge. Steph ordered a pork sandwich, which she devoured (as it was enormous, I gathered that it must have been delicious). What I loved about her sandwich was that the fries were inside it! It was one of the best meals I have had so far.
When we returned Jill was back, and Tom called us to see if we wanted to go out. I said no (I had developed pinkeye), but Jill and Steph begged pretty hard and I eventually gave in, grumpily putting on a red dress to match the glasses I had to wear. We left with a group of about 10-15 people (which was eventually widdled down to seven: me, Jill, Steph, Tom, his friend Brady, and their friends Bridget and Taryn). They stopped to have a beer at a kiosk on the street, but I was full enough from dinner and took a pass. The walk to the metro was about 20 minutes and I thanked myself for not wearing heels. We boarded and took it into Athens, where we searched for a spot to settle in. The stop we had gotten off at was mainly restaurants and we wasted about a half hour sitting/walking/standing around like dorks. It was 12:30 and we headed back to the metro to take it another stop over. Unfortunately, the metro closes at 12:30; interestingly enough, we made it in just to be told this, but when we tried to leave, they had closed a gate on us and we were trapped. It was quite the adventure getting out. We finally decided on taking two cabs to a place that supposedly had good night life (according to the local Jill asked), and finally ended up at a Mexican (!!) bar in a side street crowded with people. My stomach had finally settled and I sipped on peach margaritas for the rest of the night (my favorite part was the fresh peach slices they included).
We headed back to the ship around 4 AM in a taxi, and I should just note that Piraeus is not the place to stay. Taxis ended up being the only option for us multiple times, and they do a very good job of overcharging. About half the money I spent in Greece was on taxis.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Piraeus, Greece: Days 1 and 2
Monday was our first day in Piraeus. As I developed a very undesirable sickness (think Strep throat), I slept in late and did not go out until my SAS trip to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. I joined DrewAnd, my Spanish teacher, my Art History teacher (the trip was for her class) and perhaps 25 of my peers on a bus to the museum, enjoying a stop at the original 1896 Olympic Stadium, where we could see the Parthenon in the distance. Driving through Athens, I was disappointed. I had expected something…prettier. I’ve heard that the islands of Greece are very beautiful, however my Semester at Sea trip to the Saronic Islands was canceled and I am not up to finding my own way to one of the islands, especially since I’ve been basically gobbling my euro ever since this trip began.
The archaeological museum was very cool, especially because I could tell exactly what century and time period (as well as specific aesthetic qualities of the pieces and the obscure names for these qualities; i.e. daedalic) the exhibits were from, due to my midterm having been two days prior. The museum is enormous, however, and I was exhausted after two hours of wandering and seeing hardly any of it. After I explored the small gift shop (I bought a memory game for Jack and a book on Greek Mythology for myself), we headed back to the ship and I napped for awhile before Steph and I left for dinner. We ran into Corey on the way and he tagged along as we searched for a restaurant open at 9 PM. We ended up at an Irish pub, where I ordered a very delicious looking fish and chips as well as a Sprite to soothe the nausea I had developed. Unfortunately, my nausea went untamed and I could not eat much of my meal. The pub had since filled with Semester at Sea kids (how does that always seem to happen?), and after eating Steph and our friend Tim walked me back to the ship (aww), then went back to the pub.
The next morning, I awoke and called Steph to see if she had gone on her trip to Delphi; it required a 7 AM wakeup and I have never known her to rise before noon. She had left, and as Jill was visiting her friend in Santorini (or the Saronic Islands…I’m not sure), I was on my own. I ran into Tom, someone I had recently met, in the hallway, and he invited me to join he and his friend at the beach later. I agreed, and we ate lunch and left for Athens. We took a cab to a small beach and settled in, enjoying the view and looking up every few minutes to say “no…thanks” to the men wandering the beach with random soccer balls, bathing suits, towels, and jewelry for sale. Tom and his friend enjoyed the bargaining and both ended up with month-long tattoos, to which I said “no thank you.” After several hours of lounging and swimming, we headed to the beachside restaurant where I snacked on French fries and cheese and hot pepper spread and the boys both had chicken souvlaki.
We cabbed back to the ship, and I showered before noticing that not putting on sunscreen just because I had run out did not prevent me from developing a sunburn along the entire front side of my body. I was still feeling sick and so I chose not to go out with them and the group they had acquired that night. I settled in to watch “Remember the Titans” for the next few hours before sleeping.
The archaeological museum was very cool, especially because I could tell exactly what century and time period (as well as specific aesthetic qualities of the pieces and the obscure names for these qualities; i.e. daedalic) the exhibits were from, due to my midterm having been two days prior. The museum is enormous, however, and I was exhausted after two hours of wandering and seeing hardly any of it. After I explored the small gift shop (I bought a memory game for Jack and a book on Greek Mythology for myself), we headed back to the ship and I napped for awhile before Steph and I left for dinner. We ran into Corey on the way and he tagged along as we searched for a restaurant open at 9 PM. We ended up at an Irish pub, where I ordered a very delicious looking fish and chips as well as a Sprite to soothe the nausea I had developed. Unfortunately, my nausea went untamed and I could not eat much of my meal. The pub had since filled with Semester at Sea kids (how does that always seem to happen?), and after eating Steph and our friend Tim walked me back to the ship (aww), then went back to the pub.
The next morning, I awoke and called Steph to see if she had gone on her trip to Delphi; it required a 7 AM wakeup and I have never known her to rise before noon. She had left, and as Jill was visiting her friend in Santorini (or the Saronic Islands…I’m not sure), I was on my own. I ran into Tom, someone I had recently met, in the hallway, and he invited me to join he and his friend at the beach later. I agreed, and we ate lunch and left for Athens. We took a cab to a small beach and settled in, enjoying the view and looking up every few minutes to say “no…thanks” to the men wandering the beach with random soccer balls, bathing suits, towels, and jewelry for sale. Tom and his friend enjoyed the bargaining and both ended up with month-long tattoos, to which I said “no thank you.” After several hours of lounging and swimming, we headed to the beachside restaurant where I snacked on French fries and cheese and hot pepper spread and the boys both had chicken souvlaki.
We cabbed back to the ship, and I showered before noticing that not putting on sunscreen just because I had run out did not prevent me from developing a sunburn along the entire front side of my body. I was still feeling sick and so I chose not to go out with them and the group they had acquired that night. I settled in to watch “Remember the Titans” for the next few hours before sleeping.
Dubrovnik, Croatia: Day 4
I had to wake up at 7:30 AM to eat breakfast and get on the bus for my kayaking trip. I got on the bus and we headed to a lookout point over the water where we were to hike down to the beach (an incredibly far ways down, likely around 300-400 feet). When we got off the bus, however, we were informed that a kayak had been stolen the previous night and one person would have to sit out and join the afternoon group instead. Since Jill was going in the afternoon, I volunteered and took the bus back to the ship, where we came within an inch or two of colliding with a van in front of us (psycho bus drivers in Croatia…). We went to the internet café until we had to leave, where I video-chatted James (!!) for awhile.
We took the bus back to the lookout point (this time I wore sneakers and brought a water bottle) and spent awhile hiking down to the bottom. Without any instruction they handed us kayaks and oars and we began following them. Warning to all future first-time kayakers: it is not as easy as it looks and after five seconds you WILL be tired. Jill and I struggled the entire way, and of course, kayaking works mainly the shoulders (not so good for me, as my high school water polo career had already catapulted me to manly-shoulders status). Unfortunately for us, our guide took us the completely opposite way of where we were going, just to turn around and go back to Lokrum!
By the time we actually reached the island (about one very hellish 1-hour kayak ride later), Jill and I were jelly and feeling very grumpy. Our guide then announced that we had one half hour to snorkel and then meet back for our kayak ride back to where we had begun. I know how to snorkel, but Jill was a bit peeved as she had expected: a. more time to snorkel and b. a bit of instruction for first timers. I tried to help her but it was to no avail and I don’t think she’s a snorkeler (my mom once told me that it is something you either get right away or you don’t). I snorkeled along, watching the fish play beneath me. I again tried to touch some wildlife, but they swim faster than I do! These little teeny fish swim faster than I do, a championship high school swimmer! Not fair. So I moseyed, avoiding the urchins (my Spanish teacher stepped on one and apparently it is none too pleasant) and looking for some fish with color! I only found one little school, and the fish were miniscule! I could only find them once though, as they disappeared immediately after I dove down to get a closer look (touch them).
Jill had given up awhile ago, and after snorkeling I joined her for some gelato before our very annoying kayak ride back. Then came the hike back up to our bus, aka: the worst part. We went up about 200 stairs and were only halfway there; the rest was straight incline. So, peeves: please let us know there is hiking involved and shoes (not flip flops) are necessary, please include SOME instruction for kayaking, and please allow for less kayaking (aka: going straight to the island) and more snorkeling/swimming. Non-peeves: it was a very good workout, my shoulders are still sore.
We took the bus back to the lookout point (this time I wore sneakers and brought a water bottle) and spent awhile hiking down to the bottom. Without any instruction they handed us kayaks and oars and we began following them. Warning to all future first-time kayakers: it is not as easy as it looks and after five seconds you WILL be tired. Jill and I struggled the entire way, and of course, kayaking works mainly the shoulders (not so good for me, as my high school water polo career had already catapulted me to manly-shoulders status). Unfortunately for us, our guide took us the completely opposite way of where we were going, just to turn around and go back to Lokrum!
By the time we actually reached the island (about one very hellish 1-hour kayak ride later), Jill and I were jelly and feeling very grumpy. Our guide then announced that we had one half hour to snorkel and then meet back for our kayak ride back to where we had begun. I know how to snorkel, but Jill was a bit peeved as she had expected: a. more time to snorkel and b. a bit of instruction for first timers. I tried to help her but it was to no avail and I don’t think she’s a snorkeler (my mom once told me that it is something you either get right away or you don’t). I snorkeled along, watching the fish play beneath me. I again tried to touch some wildlife, but they swim faster than I do! These little teeny fish swim faster than I do, a championship high school swimmer! Not fair. So I moseyed, avoiding the urchins (my Spanish teacher stepped on one and apparently it is none too pleasant) and looking for some fish with color! I only found one little school, and the fish were miniscule! I could only find them once though, as they disappeared immediately after I dove down to get a closer look (touch them).
Jill had given up awhile ago, and after snorkeling I joined her for some gelato before our very annoying kayak ride back. Then came the hike back up to our bus, aka: the worst part. We went up about 200 stairs and were only halfway there; the rest was straight incline. So, peeves: please let us know there is hiking involved and shoes (not flip flops) are necessary, please include SOME instruction for kayaking, and please allow for less kayaking (aka: going straight to the island) and more snorkeling/swimming. Non-peeves: it was a very good workout, my shoulders are still sore.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Dubrovnik, Croatia: Day 3
The three of us not going to Bosnia ended up being a fine thing, as we had an excellent night at Fuego and the next day we had an INCREDIBLE time. As we had gone to sleep late, we woke up late and had lunch on the ship before leaving to find a cliff to jump off of (!). We were not the only ones, but it seemed we were the LAST ones, as everyone we saw had a story of the forty foot cliff they conquered or the cliff that was bigger than the ship that they almost died jumping off of (no thank you). My roommate Amy and her friend (carrying a giant yellow raft…) opted to join us, but we lost them while walking through Old City, as they stopped at several stores and Steph, Jill, and I were anxious to swim (it was, once again, disgustingly hot).
We took a 40 kuna (8 dollar) ferry to Lokrum, the island we had taken the boat around on our first night, which is a popular cliff-jumping area. We arrived to find peacocks EVERYWHERE, and as I have never seen a peacock up close, let alone a wild one, I spent a good five minutes trying to pet one while Jill screamed in my ear that it would snatch my eyeball out and she was not going to fetch it for me. I gave up and bought a gelato as we sat down while Steph had a sandwich (she had missed lunch). It was quite entertaining to watch the peacocks wander in and around the restaurant, and I noted that female peacocks look more like turkeys, as they are rather ugly. Afterwards, we journeyed upwards, following Jill although she had no idea where she was going, and ended up spending half an hour on trails that led nowhere and getting bug bites (mine were particularly nasty and up until today had been inch-long red rashes on my leg with pus-filled and oozing bubbles in the center). We finally found a way to get down to the beach, which in Croatia means giant rocks over the water where people lay on their towel naked (it took us a minute or two to realize it was indeed a nude beach).
We climbed down the rocks, which took me a good ten minutes longer than Jill and Steph (as I actually fear for and value my life) and we finally ended up at the spot where we would exhaust ourselves over the next several hours. Jill jumped first, off the smaller 15-foot cliff, and I jumped next, landing flat-footed (a bad idea). The water was lovely and warm and nice to simply float around in. Steph jumped next and over the next hour we jumped several more times and cheered on the naked men as they all jumped as well. Jill and Steph were soon tired of the smaller cliff and opted for the next one up, an intimidating forty-footer. As they now (still) nurse their very ugly bruises, I do not regret sticking to my smaller rocks. Towards the end of our excursion, a group of guys about James’s age came along and jumped off the even higher one (which we had not even noticed, let alone considered), which was at least 70 feet high. They showed us all up as they dove and spun around as they jumped as if it were nothing.
After swimming and jumping and climbing and jumping and swimming, we were exhausted. We found a much shorter way back to the road and hopped and skipped along the rocks until we reached it (my knees are not happy with me for all the climbing I did) and settled back into the restaurant for some snacks. We ordered a cheese, corn, and bean salad and Steph and I also ordered two fruit salads (fresh delicious fruit topped with vanilla gelato, whipped cream, and strawberry sauce; read: PERFECTION), which we devoured completely. We then headed back on the ferry to go back to Dubrovnik and showered before heading to dinner. We went back to the restaurant Steph and I had eaten at the day before, and I ordered a prosciutto and olive appetizer (extra olives) with the lentil soup again (four dollars for deliciousness, why say no?). Jill ordered an amazing salmon dish with green pasta and tomato cream sauce, and Steph had a similarly delicious seafood pasta. We went to sleep early, as I had a field trip the next morning at 9 AM to go snorkeling and kayaking.
We took a 40 kuna (8 dollar) ferry to Lokrum, the island we had taken the boat around on our first night, which is a popular cliff-jumping area. We arrived to find peacocks EVERYWHERE, and as I have never seen a peacock up close, let alone a wild one, I spent a good five minutes trying to pet one while Jill screamed in my ear that it would snatch my eyeball out and she was not going to fetch it for me. I gave up and bought a gelato as we sat down while Steph had a sandwich (she had missed lunch). It was quite entertaining to watch the peacocks wander in and around the restaurant, and I noted that female peacocks look more like turkeys, as they are rather ugly. Afterwards, we journeyed upwards, following Jill although she had no idea where she was going, and ended up spending half an hour on trails that led nowhere and getting bug bites (mine were particularly nasty and up until today had been inch-long red rashes on my leg with pus-filled and oozing bubbles in the center). We finally found a way to get down to the beach, which in Croatia means giant rocks over the water where people lay on their towel naked (it took us a minute or two to realize it was indeed a nude beach).
We climbed down the rocks, which took me a good ten minutes longer than Jill and Steph (as I actually fear for and value my life) and we finally ended up at the spot where we would exhaust ourselves over the next several hours. Jill jumped first, off the smaller 15-foot cliff, and I jumped next, landing flat-footed (a bad idea). The water was lovely and warm and nice to simply float around in. Steph jumped next and over the next hour we jumped several more times and cheered on the naked men as they all jumped as well. Jill and Steph were soon tired of the smaller cliff and opted for the next one up, an intimidating forty-footer. As they now (still) nurse their very ugly bruises, I do not regret sticking to my smaller rocks. Towards the end of our excursion, a group of guys about James’s age came along and jumped off the even higher one (which we had not even noticed, let alone considered), which was at least 70 feet high. They showed us all up as they dove and spun around as they jumped as if it were nothing.
After swimming and jumping and climbing and jumping and swimming, we were exhausted. We found a much shorter way back to the road and hopped and skipped along the rocks until we reached it (my knees are not happy with me for all the climbing I did) and settled back into the restaurant for some snacks. We ordered a cheese, corn, and bean salad and Steph and I also ordered two fruit salads (fresh delicious fruit topped with vanilla gelato, whipped cream, and strawberry sauce; read: PERFECTION), which we devoured completely. We then headed back on the ferry to go back to Dubrovnik and showered before heading to dinner. We went back to the restaurant Steph and I had eaten at the day before, and I ordered a prosciutto and olive appetizer (extra olives) with the lentil soup again (four dollars for deliciousness, why say no?). Jill ordered an amazing salmon dish with green pasta and tomato cream sauce, and Steph had a similarly delicious seafood pasta. We went to sleep early, as I had a field trip the next morning at 9 AM to go snorkeling and kayaking.
Dubrovnik, Croatia: Day 2
Our second day in Croatia, Jill had another SAS trip and so Steph and I went to lunch on our own. We found this fantastic restaurant (the first place we spotted) and I had lentil soup and we shared a cheese plate. We each had a beer and she had something I cannot remember, as it was five days ago, and our bill was just thirty-two dollars! Much better than the night before. After lunch we went to an internet café near the ship for about an hour and then headed back to meet Jill for our already planned trip to Bosnia. We were tendering, which means that the ship was anchored off-shore and we were taking our life boats to and from shore (they only left about every half hour). We were packed and ready and waiting for Jill until 4:45 PM. Her trip ended at 4, however her bus was late and because of tendering she could not make it to the ship for another half hour. Unfortunately, the last bus to Bosnia was at 5:15 PM and we couldn’t get to shore until about 5:20, so although it was comical to watch us pitch a fit with the crew members for taking too long and sprinting to the bus station with all of our luggage, we missed our bus. We had to give up our hotel and the 50 euro it cost and settle in for the night.
We spent about three hours being angry at the world and then decided to go to dinner in Old City and then go out to a bar or club (I asked “please no club”). DrewAnd joined us for pizza and beers in a little alleyway Italian spot where the pizza was delicious and the service was friendly. We then made our way across the Old City to EastWest, a bar which has no cover fee until midnight; we arrived at 12:01 and were denied entrance unless we forked over 50 kuna (about $9.50). We nixed that idea and headed over to the nightclub (sigh) Fuego, second titled “Latino Club” (aka my kind of place). I tried a Sex on the Beach for the first time and it was delicious, though they completely ripped me off as I had our resident alcohol expert try it and she told me that it had less than a shot in it. It was 38 kuna, or 8 dollars. The next time I asked for extra alcohol and received one with (according to our expert) about 2 shots for 13 kuna (2.5 dollars) more. I finished my drink and as DrewAnd went to the bar I asked him to get me another Sex on the Beach with extra vodka. He came back with a TWO FEET TALL Sex on the Beach and said “I don’t know what happened…sorry,” whilst laughing hysterically. I gave him about half the drink and marveled at how I was supposed to drink the concoction in front of me; the straws went up to the ceiling, after all! I sipped on it for the remainder of the night, as probably fifty more Semester at Sea people filled the club. I spent a social night (not dancing) on the basement level of the club, meeting a few new people and watching many people get sloppy and make out. We spent awhile there and left around 4 AM, making it back to the ship around 4:30; I was once again proud of myself, as I never stay up that late (I usually fall victim to midnight).
We spent about three hours being angry at the world and then decided to go to dinner in Old City and then go out to a bar or club (I asked “please no club”). DrewAnd joined us for pizza and beers in a little alleyway Italian spot where the pizza was delicious and the service was friendly. We then made our way across the Old City to EastWest, a bar which has no cover fee until midnight; we arrived at 12:01 and were denied entrance unless we forked over 50 kuna (about $9.50). We nixed that idea and headed over to the nightclub (sigh) Fuego, second titled “Latino Club” (aka my kind of place). I tried a Sex on the Beach for the first time and it was delicious, though they completely ripped me off as I had our resident alcohol expert try it and she told me that it had less than a shot in it. It was 38 kuna, or 8 dollars. The next time I asked for extra alcohol and received one with (according to our expert) about 2 shots for 13 kuna (2.5 dollars) more. I finished my drink and as DrewAnd went to the bar I asked him to get me another Sex on the Beach with extra vodka. He came back with a TWO FEET TALL Sex on the Beach and said “I don’t know what happened…sorry,” whilst laughing hysterically. I gave him about half the drink and marveled at how I was supposed to drink the concoction in front of me; the straws went up to the ceiling, after all! I sipped on it for the remainder of the night, as probably fifty more Semester at Sea people filled the club. I spent a social night (not dancing) on the basement level of the club, meeting a few new people and watching many people get sloppy and make out. We spent awhile there and left around 4 AM, making it back to the ship around 4:30; I was once again proud of myself, as I never stay up that late (I usually fall victim to midnight).
Friday, July 10, 2009
Dubrovnik, Croatia: Day 1
Tuesday was our first day in Dubrovnik, and it is by far the most beautiful port we have docked in yet. Jill, Steph, and I got up for an 8 o’clock breakfast and then returned to a sleepy state until 11, when we left the ship to find something to eat and do a bit of exploring before our city orientations. European restaurants seem to only serve food during certain hours, however, and we were not able to find any. Instead, we stopped in several stores so I could buy some Croatian chocolate and biscuits (for all of you) and a towel (because it was silly of me not to bring one when I go to the beach every time I’m in port).
After eating a drab lunch on the ship, we all went on our separate city orientations (Steph and I to a synagogue, martime museum, and aquarium and Jill to churches and museums) in the “Old City” of Dubrovnik, which is almost like the town square or main street, with shops, restaurants, churches, etc. Steph and I were horribly tired and it was (again) brutally hot, so we zoned for a good portion of the time. Our first stop was a scenic hilltop overlooking the Dubrovnik coast, which was incredible. We then explored a bit of the Old City, and visited the oldest Sephardic synagogue in western Europe. There are only 44 people in the Dubrovnik Jewish community, and they don’t all even live there. It was very tiny and very hot, so we only stayed a short while. We then walked more into Old City to the maritime museum and aquarium, which were both small but interesting; the aquarium actually only held sea creatures from the Adriatic Sea. Afterwards we had some free time, and Steph and I came upon a small group of stands selling homemade olive oils, honeys, and spices, where I bought some very delicious presents.
After our trips, we napped and showered before returning to Old City for dinner. We stopped at a relatively expensive place, where I ordered a mozzarella salad and shrimp risotto, but the salad was overpriced and the risotto was al dente, which is not my preference. Steph and Jill liked their dinners very much, however, and thought the prices worth it. Afterwards, we walked to the pier and saw that they were selling night boat tours of Dubrovnik and the island next to it for only 70 kuna each (about 12 dollars). We got on a small boat that had a lit glass bottom (very fun to see the fish and rocks beneath) and headed out into the Adriatic. After about thirty minutes our “guide” (the man directing the boat) asked us if we wanted to go swimming, to which Jill immediately replied “yes” and I immediately replied “no,” as seasickness had once again gotten the better of me. Steph also agreed to go, and so our guide anchored the boat and they stripped to their skivvies and jumped in. Almost immediately, our guide also stripped and jumped in after them (a comical sight, as he was a larger, hairy man). I rested on the boat until the returned about fifteen minutes later and we headed back to shore.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Some photos from Italy
Sorry, I don't have much time! I cannot upload the rest of the pictures from Spain but I will upload several from Italy, including the hike up Mt. Vesuvius (the best part!). They are out of order!
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